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Steiger panther clutch adjustment
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D&M Farms
Posted 5/15/2022 09:46 (#9661231 - in reply to #9660844)
Subject: RE: Steiger panther clutch adjustment


Stoddard Co. SEMO
Mav - 5/15/2022 01:59

I knew you were going to still have problems when I read what your where going to do in your initial post. It is just unfortunate that most of the information you got there, was not entirely correct. Since I hate to come down on people, I will just inform you of the post that are correct in this current post. Raider2b and Jon Hagan are spot on.

First off, as I said in your initial post, you need to take away most of the slop between the pedal and master cylinder. If you do not do that, then the master cylinder will not naturally bleed out any entrained air and it will not allow full travel of the slave actuator. Pushrod slop between the master cylinder and pedal is something around 1/8th inch in most cases. Again, this adjustment will be make inside the cab.

If that checks out, then the next adjustment needs to be setting the clutch brake. That is done by adjusting the clutch linkage on the outside of the transmission. Reason being, total travel of the clutch pedal (depressing it completely to the firewall) needs to move the throw-out bearing back against the clutch brake pad by the push fork. There is absolutely nothing about the clutch adjustment ring that influences total bearing rearward movement. I set it only tight enough to stop transmission rotation in about a second's worth of time.

Once the clutch brake is set, then the final adjustment is setting the running clearance between the push fork and the throw-out bearing. This is done with the notched adjustment ring. I think most specs like something of 1/8 to 1/4 inch of running clearance between the push fork and the contact surfaces on the bearing holder. Now, if the clutch linkage design team did all their homework correctly, then there will be a half inch of clearance between the bearing housing and clutch brake. But, it is very uncommon to have it work out that way.

Once again, there are only two critical conditions that need met The transmission needs to stop in a short time when the clutch is fully depressed, and there needs to be a running clearance between the push fork and bearing housing when the clutch is fully engaged. Don't make it any more complicated than that.

Mav


Thank you. I’ve had this trouble before and put a clutch brake shim in, due to the ONE PIECE clutch brakes wear. I’ve had to adjust the clutch 3-4 notches once before. I adjusted it about 8 notches total, which seems like to much to me.. I started it up, barely depressed the clutch and though slightly grinding it went in gear. After in gear, it wouldn’t come out of gear. Shut tractor off depressed clutch and pushed shifter forward pretty hard until it came out. Shifter is out of gear but tractor isn’t. Geeezee,.......what a deal this has been.
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