Mav - 5/15/2022 15:08

Well... to be honest, I am afraid you goofed up when you installed a clutch/transmission brake shim. But in order to see why, I need to expand a little on my oversimplification of clutch pedal operation.

Clutch operation summed up in three simple steps:

1) A fully engaged clutch (foot completely off the pedal) needs to have ample running clearance between the yoke and bearing contact pads.
2) The clutch's friction plates need to completely disengage with mid-depression of the clutch pedal.
3) Full depression of the clutch pedal, needs to activate the transmission brake.

Now, it is quite obvious why there should be a significant amount of pedal travel between these three actions. We have to prevent those actions from stacking up on one another as well as provide some operator comfort. Hence, we start to see the problem of inserting a shim instead of making a proper clutch adjustment. What you did, was effectively remove the amount of pedal travel between fully disengaging the clutch's friction plates and activating the clutch brake. And, I think what you experienced, was the result of having the transmission brake come on before full disengagement of the clutch friction disks.

Unfortunately, I think your tugging on the shift stick, pulled the shift rod out of the shift blocks. Now, your only option is to pull up the floor, remove the shift tower, pry the shift forks back into the their neutral positions, and then set the shift tower back on.

Once you do that, take the transmission brake shim out and try to adjust the clutch as I have described above. That is how I have adjusted our clutches for many decades. The only clutch problems we have every experienced, has been excess wear due to operator abuse. There have been no mechanical failures, whatsoever!

Mav