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| I appreciate the positive responses, but wow, I wasn't expecting the negativity, its like I'm the first person ever to suggest rebuilding a 4020... maybe I didn't explain enough.
I'm not a novice, I've been around the 20 series all my life (40+ years) its what we had growing up in the rice fields of Arkansas. Dad still has a '65 4020 powershift with 11000 hours and a '71 4620 with 7500 hours- 90% of those hours were put on them by dad or me. Both tractors are tired, but in relatively decent shape - mechanically and cosmetically, considering what they had to do (now they are his hobby tractors in retirement). I've put injection pumps on both in the last couple of years and know that will be needed on the one I have, I'm prepared for that.
Other than the engine, the one I've just bought is in good shape. I've put about 20 hours on it as I tried to diagnose the problem and its severity. The 7200 hours are 'real' as best as I can tell. The shifter is not badly worn (about the same as the 4620 with 7500 hours, the transmission shifts well, doesn't grind, and the hydraulics are good. It will hold a load with the three point hitch after the engine is shut off for several HOURS, I'm not sure there are many out there that will do that, and a few unofficial lift/pull tests (pulling stumps out) showed everything is good. I did pull the rear PTO cover off to replace the seal and stop a significant hydraulic oil leak, but otherwise no issues there. Changing the filters and the sump screen showed no filings or other concerns. Clutch has plenty of adjustment left, and looks good through the inspection plate. The coolant leak seems to have slowed when I added fresh antifreeze, so its likely just the o-rings, though there could be some erosion in the block. I also replaced the couplers up front on the pump - and yes, that can sound exactly like a rod knock, it scared us on the 1965 until we replaced those too!
I did get this tractor at a reasonable price. The suggestion below to 'sell it and buy a good one', well, if you search both online and in person auctions over the last 18 months or so, a 'good' 4020 will run you $15K, at least. I was in the bidding for one several months ago but dropped out at $15K, it went for over $22K, and it wasn't even restored, just a nice looking '71, synchro transmission with a canopy, nothing else special about it! Now, if you want to get one beat all to he11, sure, maybe you can find one for $6K or so, but if its that bad cosmetically, you can be fairly confident it will have SOME mechanical issues. A salvage tractor with the head off and known spun main bearings just sold in TX, maybe 6 hours from me for $5500. The point is, if I can find a good shop and put $8K in a rebuild, I will be in this tractor for about the same as the hypothetical 'good' 4020 that is mysteriously hiding out there somewhere. I'm just not excited about the last resort of going to JD and spending $12K (or $15K or more...).
Thus, my simple question of 'anyone know of a good shop (hopefully) near me'. At least then I can get a rough estimate quote and make a decision from there. I appreciate the folks from KS and SD, I will contact you to at least get information on potential places, if for no other reason than to prepare me for the sticker shock that may come! | |
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4020 Rebuild Question
