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CAT pony motor/diesel starting problem
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ccjersey
Posted 8/24/2012 09:13 (#2556004 - in reply to #2555923)
Subject: Re: CAT pony motor/diesel starting problem


Faunsdale, AL
They all have a "combination" to get it to start. I've got one on the D318 we blow silage with that will rope start. That's the only really nice starting one I have ever had though. Many of them require a lot of choke to run because of clogged jets in the carburetor. With the right amount of choke, you can keep one going for a long time. One that still requires choke to run after a carburetor rebuild still has some clogged passageways in the bowl and perhaps the carb body itself.

It all comes back to the basics, fuel, air, spark, compression and timing. Most common problems are no spark because of corroded points/bad condenser and fuel supply problems. I would start by checking the spark holding a wire close to the plug. If you have spark on both sides, then open petcocks and crank it over to blow any liquids out of cylinder, close and see if it has compression (cranks slower with cocks closed). If you have any compression, then turn on gas and choke it. You should get a LOT of gas blowing out of the petcocks after choking it for 30 seconds or two. If not, probably the needle valve in the carburetor is clogged or the lines are clogged or the outlet of the tank is clogged or the main jet passageway across the bottom of the carburetor bowl is clogged (does there seem to be a trend here?) Most fuel supply problems originate in the tank. Take off, clean and reline, then clean all the lines and the carburetor. Most parts are available from CAT or JD (2 cylinder diesel pony motor carb kit) or Zenith dealer (TU4C is the model of the carburetor I believe).

The ponies have a hard life, but one thing you can do is to always stop the pony motor by cutting off the gasoline tap to starve it dry. If you use the mag switch and do not turn off the gas, the carb float usually will shake around enough that the tank drains into the pony crankcase, dilutes the oil and the thing throws a rod. Cost to rebuild one has become more than or similar to converting to direct electric start with a 40 or 42MT Delco starter. The only thing that is odd about the old CAT's is they require a special starter drive (and "nose" if you want the solenoid to point the correct direction). If you want more information, I can post some links later.

Or just pull the tractor off! Just remember, the reverser lever on a 9U is forward to go backward and back to go forward. Had oil puked out of the air breather on my boots once! Usually pull in 4th, 5th is pretty fast unless you have only a small tractor (reverser doesn't work in 5th, only goes forward no matter where the reverser lever is put). If you pull start it, you can really get in a tight spot to choke it down!
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