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Iowa | NC Iowa
1) Drill or plant on 15" rows. You can double back w a 30" planter. This is the number 1 step to better June-planted yields here, absolutely a MUST, I don't care if you have to hire it done, or double-back w your planter, this is really important. This late, the plants aren't going to have enough time to get tall with lots of nodes/pods per plant. Not much bushing out possible so wider rows will really harm the yield. I know there are 30" rows that win contests, but not if planted in mid or late June. Wide rows only work in a good year planted early.
2) Plant thick--maybe 170 vs 140,000 (here, anyway) for same reasons listed above.
3) This is more controversial, but it works for me--if planted by maybe June 20 or so, TAKE GOOD CARE OF THEM! I would foliar-feed, treat at first sign of insect pressure (way below threshhold), most likely spray w fungicide later. The idea is to keep everything away that can possibly hurt them or slow them down.
4) After about June 20, just plant narrow rows thick, keep weeds down, and hope for the best. That is such a late planting date that I wouldn't spend much money on them--there just isn't enough time for a good yield.
Planted an 80 in 2008 on June 19, did all the things above, and got 47 bu/A. Planted another field same day, mile away, similar soils, same variety, didn't do the insecticide/fungicide/foliar feed, and got 32 bu/A. Made a believer out of me!! | |
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Questions on late beans?
