|
southern MN | First, you need to get permission to tile - wetlands issues. If you can pass that, then:
If this is one field, probably best to hire it done. Those fellas usually know what they are doing, and help you with the design of it.
I've got hills, and low spots, and seeping clay hillsides.
Generally you tile from low spot to low spot, and put in some pattern tile in small groups here & there to catch the water from the hillsides & low spots. You can't patern tile a whole 80, but you run a main line to the 4 low spots, and put in a branch along the seeping hillside, and a 10 acre group of pattern tile to get that lower flat spot, and 2 branches along either side of the valley to pick up the water coming out of each of those hillsides....
Now, what size tile to use? Well it depends how many acres. Typically 'here' you use 4 inch for the upper ends, and the mains heading to the ditch are 8, 10, or 12 inch mains. Or bigger.
If this is all new tile, it's important to use a big enough main tile so - in 3-4 years - you can add on more drainage, and pick up the spots that you missed the first time.
If tile is too small or poorly designed, you can end up with the hillside seeps draining down the tile real fast, and water coming up in the low spots because the flatter tile leading away from the low spot can't handle all the water.
It's hard to tell what experience you have, or what size operation we are talking about from your message.
Dad used to survey tile lines back in the 50s and 60s, and there is a lot of tile under my fields. I'm not sure I"d feel confidant seting up my own design even so.
Don't know that this helped any, guess I just kinda rambled on with no point....
--->Paul | |
|
Field Drainage Tiling
