|
NW OHIO | #1 Footer Bearing / do not over excavate the footer bearing and then stone in to level out the footer bearing. This would allow outside water to migrate through the stone into your basement. Also if your footer is on sand, forget the basement. Setting yourself up for a drainage nightmare and a footing failure
#2 Footer width / 3 times the width of the wall typically 8" thick
#3 Footer rebar / 3 rows of 1/2" laid 3" off the bottom
#4 Drainage / use the perforated footer form or use perforated tile but it must be placed beside the footer. 3" along the inside of the footer and a 4" along the outside. (do not connect these together) Isolating the water migration from outside to inside is a must! (if you have a power outage this will buy you many hours if not days from a wet basement)
#5 Sump Pump / insert one on the inside and install one on the outside. The outside one can be installed using a 18" smooth wall plastic pipe standing on end connected to a 18" sump well. Vertical 18" must be smooth wall. You need the added strength to maintain stability.
#6 Vertical rebar / 3/8" vertical every 18" placed in footer. (not on top)
#7 Horizontal rebar / 3/8" horizontal 3" off top of footer then every 18" there after.
#8 Concrete / Class C / coat the walls with pitch
#9 Backfill / clean gravel or stone. (no fines in it) Place at least 1\3 way up the wall
(You now have a free standing basement that does not need the house to hold it up)
I realize most contractors will not go to this extreme.
One finale thing, very important, be there when the hole is dug. Watch very closely for any drainage tile that are intersected. If any are found, redirect the around the house. Do not plug
Good Luck!
| |
|
House Foundation Question
