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Wisconsin | If the top of the soil isn't dry, a ground wire is less important. They talk about ground wires a lot in Australia, but it really gets dry there, and for a long time. Any electric fence I have ever seen, the limiting factor is the weeds on the fence shorting it out (assuming you've eliminated the shorts to steel). So the dryer it gets, the higher the fence voltage and the better the shock. I've never seen conditions where the ground and vegetation are so dry that the shock goes down. I don't get around much though.
That's a good first step. You could also have left them to figure it out themselves, the brave, smart, soon to be frozen ones will try it out and the rest will learn just fine from their example. For deer fencing, peanut butter on a piece of aluminum from pop cans is effective at training.
Next step, test the fence voltage at the far end. Find any faults, see how hot you can get it. Check it everyday until you know how often you need to be checking the voltage and zap.
A couple things from the website, quite a fencer you got, you're not playing around. Do you have it plugged in, it will conserve power on a battery, you don't want it conserving power. You're not using the low energy terminal, are you? The voltage display measures the voltage at the fencer only, it will show a low voltage when the fence is grounded out on grass or posts, it will NOT tell you if your fence has poor connections and inadequate grounds. That is supposed to have 6 ground rods, in damp soil and so many feet apart and solid connections. | |
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Electric fence ideas
