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| First things to check on a Bi-Di is starting at engine end is the rear axle cradle pivots that they aren't wore out or any welds broke in the cradle itself. They are a tapered pin/castellated nut and can be tighted if bushings aren't shot. Then next I'm thinking your flex plate in engine flywheel might be getting some wear in it at 7,000 hours. It will require pulling engine to replace it. While at engine check your battery cross over cable + to + that runs on back side of engine oil pan. It will have wear and if you clean dirt, grease out of that area you can cause grounding and fire. Then from there go to center pivot pins in tractor frame. They are a tapered pin just like the axle cradle, they can be tightened. However you need to have someone run it and put pressure on loader on ground and watch for play. You can also see play moving forward and back, I can feel it when I run one that is loose. If you can't tighten them, need to replace pin and bearing.
Going to the cab you need to check center pedestal for leaks and loose bolts where seat pivots, the bolts that fasten it to cab floor and crack and let pedestal break. Next in that area on each end of the cab floor is a pot metal clip type deal that hold seat pedestal from rocking back in forth. The part under steering wheel is metal, however the piece on the floor is pot metal and the top side can break. If you let that go and don't fix it the pedestal can break, it's a expensive part compared to a $10 dollar pot metal part.
If there is play in FNR lever you can replace a bushing in it and tighten it up, check cable that it runs to hydro you can get wear in it and the cable ends. Replacing those will take slack out of the FNR lever. Most problems with the 3 points on engine end and also cab end is from the poor potentiometer linkage that is held on with a hose clamp on the rock shafts. They can slip and get out of adjustment, it's a pretty simple system to work on once you figure out how it works.
As far as PTO's they are a poor design, however they will work just need maintaince. Check oil in them, clean breathers also if going to run snow blowers, etc. check the chain drive inside of them. As for axles check diff cover and see if a tag is on it for it being a limited slip on engine end. It needs special oil for it, also those lockers will wear out over time. They are a Danna Spicer diff, so parts aren't a problem.
As for loader check for wore bushings the 4 main pins in the loader to really watch are the two main lower pins to quick tach to bucket and also the two most upper big pins on main loader arms up by cab door. Those 4 main pins take the brunt of the work in the loader. Bushings are cheap to put in, two bushing per pin. At those hours I would take loader off and inspect all of them and replace pins if needed.
As for trans. it's a 3 speed if it's a 276 or 276II the early ones took shift cable in the bottom side of trans. they consistently broke. There was a update to put shifter into the top of trans. it fixed the problem. Just check the couple big 4 bolt hyd. hoses for bad crimps and hairline cracks around fittings on them. These are the hoses going to hydro to pump. Also like others said check park break caliper pads on disc on driveline, it's under the cab. If left on it can cause a fire if lots of grease, hay in there.
All in all they are a component part tractor were everything bolts on, easy to take off and fix. Great loaders for dirt yards, float good, get in tight spaces. They aren't made for heavy tillage, or plowing. Rock pickers, drilling etc. and the best is for loader work. Personally I wouldn't want to swath hay with one, but I do know guys that farm some swampy wet ground and they work good for them with a header on them. Kind of a jack of all trades , master of none type of tractor. I really liked them to load and unload hay semi's, they are quick and can get in tight spots. I used all most 100% loader work loading spreaders and hay bales, also used a rubber tire scraper on 3 point to clean dirt yards with loader going too.
I just remembered after a certain year they quit limited slip in axle on the 9030's I know some of the 9030E didn't have it. The E was emissionized engine. I do have a TV 6070 that we are wanting to get rid of down the road here as we need to go to bigger industrial loader. They addressed a lot of the problems the 276 and 9030's had when they went to the TV's.
Edit to add, I stole Red Cows pic to show the two pins that really wear on those loaders(thanks Red Cows). Also check the welds in the pipe crossover tube in the loader frame as they can get cracks over time.
Edited by Russ In Idaho 2/19/2021 01:38
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Bi-directional questions
