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| Your engine control module is on the rear wall of engine compartment, out of that should be a 9 pin round AMP connector , It will have a round locking ring on it, remove it an look for corroded / blue / greenish oxidation, Try and clean with electrical cleaner spray or brake cleaner if present. While the symptoms occur, wiggle this same harness back to the ECM, and back towards the main harness at least 12-18" if possible. Tug gently on the wires when connector is apart, and see if you can see pin / socket movement, note you will have to loosen or remove the rear shell plastic clamp to harness clamp on each side that is retained with 2 small screws.
If this does not help, if the fuel derate sensor has not been changed, there is an updated sensor and harness extension that screws on the injection pump.
Also take a good look at the fuel shut off solenoid and wires, due to fan blast and brittle loom of harness. Same way go back 12-18-24" from the connector.
How is the horsepower when running full RPM ?
How many hours on the engine, ?
It may be due for a tuneup or overhaul ( meaning the injection pump ).
EDIT These are electronic governed, if the governor is the issue, the injection pump will need to be removed and taken to an authorized repair shop.
This is not an uncommon problem.
There should also be a 6 pin weatherpack connector and a 4 pin weatherpack connector around rear of pump, Same way take a good hard look at the pins and sockets and the harness back.
Have you tested your fuel pump pressure feeding the injection pump, after the rectangular filter and before or feeding the pump you should have like over 30psi at idle.
These combines are getting some age on them, the pressure or supply lines from tank to primer pump are starting to show cracks, and some are leaking air to the inside of line, but may not show a visible leak outwards. I been replacing a few of these lines on older machines, but normally this is a bleed back problem, and not this severe for a running problem.
Have you checked the aftercooler and hoses, same way the age and wear and tear is starting to be a factor.
Lastly, I have to double check, but I think there is a sensor on the aftercooler for air temp, if this is faulty, it may be telling the ECM a false parameter, and trying to shut the engine down, normally I'll see a code, or have a low horsepower complaint very similar to a plugged aftercooler symptom, but again same way with the other sensors, check the wiring...wear and tear, ...or rodents ?
You also mentioned up to operating temp....there should be 2 temperature sensors IIRC, one for guage and another for the overhead display ?, anyhow, check wiring on those, and maybe bypass to check or replace sensor. I'll check this when I get a chance tomorrow if you still post problems.
The above replies from other posters are good ideas too.
Another thing to try...If you can get it to act up, if possible, turn on the unloading auger, some machines have the powerboost option, that juices the horsepower for like another 1.5 minutes, ( for unloading on the go ). See if problem persists, or goes away.
Make sure turbo is good, remove the air intake hose and see how much play the turbine shaft has, or if its rubbing into the housing.
Hope this helps.
Good luck
Rog
Edited by hf213 8/7/2020 20:50
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John Deere 9600 engine rpm's surging
