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hf213

Posted 10/11/2018 21:07 (#7041524 - in reply to #7040892)
Subject: RE: First time putting on NH3, couple questions

You do not have to be afraid of it, but RESPECT IT, the 1st time you let your guard down it can bite, and bite hard.

That being said, you will probably get a lot of this in your training.
This is my procedure and protocol for when I apply it. I have my own bar, but use supplier tanks ( CPS or Nutrien now ).

Liquid NH3 will freeze burn your skin on contact.
The vapors can collapse your lungs and make it impossible for you not to breathe in the next breath.

Mask...fullface with correct filter media
Gloves, most use a thicker nitrile type glove, or a double dipped glove.
Long sleeved shirt minimum and I always say jeans, and leather boots, no tennis shoes.

I apply mine as side dress in the summer, so the fall application might be a little different.
Make sure the nurse tanks and applicator hoses are current up to date, they should be date coded when they expire.
Same way with the quick coupler,

WORK or fill upwind of the lines you are working on.
Treat ALL the lines as if they are charged with Nh3, so before you start, make sure all valves are turned off.
Check and open EACH bleeder screw slowly, Be aware, that EVEN THOUGH ALL VALVES are OFF, its still possible to have pressurized lines with Nh3 in them.
Once you are certain NO NH3 is in any line, then I proceed to perform a coupler test.
BEFORE turning open any valve from nurse tank I Test my quick coupler by yanking on it, it should come undone and couple back up smoothly, then I check the seals and coupler condition that it is clean and spring collar slides freely.

I have 2 strainers on mine, one before my Raven cooler, and another finer mesh before my distribution manifold. I make sure these are clean of any rust or debris. Mine have magnets in them to help catch the rusty debris.

I have a water tank on my tractor for an emergency, but the nurse tanks should have them strapped on too, and have WATER IN THEM !

I always inspect the nurse wagon I get before dragging it home, decent tires / rims, hitch in solid shape, no leaking valves....I will not take the tank if something is not right, its not worth the risk.
Sometimes in the seasonal rush , things can easily get overlooked, or previous user forgets to tell the supplier if there was a problem.

I usually pull the 1000 gallon size ( small ) tanks when sidedressing, and if I shoot for example like 175 lbs of actual, I want to say I get like 19 acres out of a tank, with maybe like 5% left or shown on the tank guage. See if your supplier has a chart for each % that will equal X amount of lbs of actual NH3 used. I have one, but its at my shop right now...but would be glad to get you a copy.
This way, if you can verify how many acres you applied, you can at least tell if you are close on your rate.
I use a Raven 660 for a controller, LOVE it, it has been very accurate for me. I use a DMI style c Shank with mole knives and Dalton closers.
Mine is a home made mounted toolbar, mine will "wander" a small amount in different soils, meaning I can tell a difference when in clay, then hit some sand or gravel, then the bar might pull to one side more than the other, but, having the toolbar mount exactly centered is a biggie in having it pull straight. Worn knives can make it want to dogtrack a little too. I have no till coulters in front of the shanks too, and this also helps in keeping it straight.

I built my own, because I was tired of waiting on the co op's having one available, it not being set accurate, was getting worn out equipment.

I have a large toolbox of parts I carry with me..
Extra shear bolts, coil of hose, extra knives, hose clamps, baling wire, zip ties, Gorilla tape, extra shank, extra closer wheel assembly, and so on...

I watch all my hoses constantly, and normally as long as they are sweating or frosty, then there is a good chance everything is working, and not plugged.
Many on here ( NAT ) have made gauge manifolds, this has been a blessing for me, as you can spot a plug issue quicker.

Before I open any valve, I make sure the bleeders are closed, and the threaded connector from applicator hose to tank is fully tightened, then when I do open a tank valve, I crack it open very slowly, then you will kind of feel or see the product surge through the hose, or you can hear it too, then I gradually open the valve fully. Take a good look for some leaks, make sure there is plenty of slack for the hoses for when turning, I use tarp straps to secure excess loops if need be.

When I am done with a tank or say like I need to work or repair my applicator, I will stop and shut the nurse tank valve off, then with the shanks / knives in still in the ground, open my applicator valve and vent off the residual line material into the ground as much as I can. NOTE, MOST TIMES there will still be vapor in the lines though !!!!!

Before I even think about venturing out on the road for travel, I shut OFF EACH valve, and try to bleed off the feed lines in case of an emergency on the road, anymore I am about paranoid with liability....

Carry a few extra seals where the threaded coupler connects to the tank, these can be the cause of leaks, and are easily repaired.

Good luck.