just a tish NE of central ND | its not really that complicated. You just have to think things out a bit and do some checking to determine which component of the combine needs to be tuned to achieve success. All combines are like that no matter what kind.
Do those steel sections happen o be key stock fillers with a clip over the wires to hold them?? They help out with hard threshing and white caps in small grains. Just leave them in there permanently. you can also put cover plates under the first concave and half of the second concave to keep the grain going though the threshing process several times to get the hulls knocked off.
I did some GLEN wheat yesterday, I needed the cover plates for that tuff threshing stuff.
When I got the 1480 of mine, (first rotor)I questioned all this stuff too. Rule of thumb is the harder threshing the crop is the narrow concave openings you use and more narrow(small wire) concave sections you use and also tighter and faster.. Most any thing you harvest you use the first concave as a small wire, but high volume easy threshing crops you can use all large wire concaves to give more opening for kernels to fall through and not be threshed any more.
Rotor speed has to match the crop also. If it leaves dust for straw you either have too much speed or the concaves too tight. Too much speed makes a hammer mill out of the rotor. Too tight on the concaves makes a grinder out of the rotor.Too much dust will overload the sieves with dust and the return will overload.If the grain is coming out un-threshed and you have the concaves pinched tight, you need some speed. if you have a lot of un-threshed stuff in the bin you either need to do a better job of threshing it before it gets to the sieves or you sieves are open too far and you need more wind.
You have to play with it to learn its capabilities. Same for the grates, if a lot of long straw is expected to some out of the machine you can use larger opening grates so there is larger openings for straw to shake the kernels out into the cleaning area.
you can also move the vanes in the rotor forward or backwards to speed or slow the number of times it goes around the rotor and over the threshing components in the rotor. The 1480 isn't that friendly in moving those vanes unless I ahs been updated to a slotted cage so you can move the vanes just by loosening the bolts and sliding.
I don't grow canola, but would start with the small concaves all in there and maybe 650 on the rotor to start out with.. Open the concaves to easy thresh and do a lot of checking behind the combine for loss and condition of the stems that come back out. Some slotted grates instead of key stock grates. make sure your sieves can close down pretty good because canola is small seed.
Get a long 1/3/8 pipe and weld a socket on the end to fit the hex-ogone drive shaft on the auger end so you can disconnect the pto drive and turn the auger backwards separately in case you plug the feeder house and auger with muskrat piles. Its too hard to turn both backwards with the feeder / rotor wrench.(ask me how I know)
Edited by School Of Hard Knock 9/5/2013 14:38
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combine rookie concave ? (1680)
