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Eastern Washington | We built one 28x13, an older building that only had a 13' ceiling. if I remember it's frame is 2x4x1/8 tubeing with 3x1x1/8 stringers on the middle and a 2x2x1/8 truss on the bottom. 3-2x3 windows and a walk door. First used 3x48 cylinders with 1 1/4 shaft, not enough shaft, first time up the shafts buckled when it was almost fully open. Kind of exciteing but didn't do any damage. next we found some 4x48 with 2" shaft and haven't had any trouble since. We made the upper hinge from 4x4x1/4 angle iron and 1/2 pipe cut into 12"pieces with a 1/2 rod all the way through. The door fram on the building is 8" chanel iron with U inside towards the building frame lag bolted into it. I sized the power pac so that it would open the door with the original cylinders in30 sec's or so, with the bigger cylinders it takes about 1 1/2 minutes. We use a power switch to start the pump and then electric valves to operate the door up and down. You'll need a rotory flow divider to make sure both cylinders get the same amount of oil regardless of load so the door doesn't twist. Also we put some hydralic safty valves on the cylinders so if a hose fails the door won't come down, it takes more pump pressure to come down than go up. tin sideing on both outside and inside with fiberglass insulation in between. On the bottom we left the steel about an inch or so above the cement in the highest place, (old building floor wasn't square or flat with building) and had about 3" in the center of the door. We used a strip of rubber belting shapped in a U on the bottom to seal against the cement. Any questions fire away. | |
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Building a Hydroswing Door
