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What does it mean when Deere dealer says NLA and parts site allows you to order?
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pirlbeck
Posted 10/18/2021 19:08 (#9275741 - in reply to #9275628)
Subject: RE: What does it mean when Deere dealer says NLA and parts site allows you to order?


West Central Iowa
dpilot83 - 10/18/2021 17:13

pirlbeck - 10/18/2021 09:43
dpilot83 - 10/18/2021 09:30

pirlbeck - 10/18/2021 09:28 OK, I found a customers job ticket from a year ago on a 4430 SR. The pump kit is now a AR201738, BUT I am not sure what you all get with this part number. There are over 150 available to order and 2 locations in my local dealer network show it in stock. I can see from the work order that we bored the suction tube hole out and we also supplied 1-AR61476 suction tube, 1-AR40669 pinion shaft lube line, 1-AR78366 trans lube tube, 1-R61477 trans pump discharge tube. My main man thinks that the AR201738 included the pump housing with the gears and the 40 series cast iron pump cover/manifold. We also used the following part numbers. The R61476 is the non-necked down suction tube used if you chose to bore the housing. If not, you need the R71048 necked down tube. 1- R30959 lock plate 1- R41041 cap screw 1-R43256 cap screw 1-R48792 washer 2-R51383 cap screw 1-R66061 line clamp 1-19H2021 cap screw 1-24H1305 washer 1-24M7178 washer There may be some other small parts that I missed, but this should be the most of it. Most likely will need some o-rings for sure.


Thank you!!!!

Gonna have to pay you and Ron a couple of hours of shop time, lol. You guys are life savers! 

You are very welcome. Did you see the post on one of your other threads where I gave you the DTAC number of the perma-clutch finger travel check?


Yes, I saw that, thanks. When I mentioned it to the shop guy he said, “we have all the tooling to adjust the clutch perfectly”.

I am kinda wondering about that broken traction clutch finger. They were just going to replace that one but why did it break? If it broke due to cycling fatigue (16,000 hours) then are the others about to break? I can’t imagine what would have caused it to break other than that… 



Having the proper tooling to adjust the clutch "perfectly" has nothing to do with the info that is contained in this DTAC/Service bulletin. It is to check for manufacturing tolerances that were not correct on early tractors that resulted in insufficient traction clutch finger travel. This resulted in the clutch slipping before the clutch was really worn out. When the adjusting jig is installed on the clutch it only takes a minute or so to check all three fingers. The minimum clearance spec between the tip of the finger and the clutch adjusting ring is .200, but that is the minimum, so I always use a 1/ 4" (.250) bolt.
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