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North Central Texas | I pull tape on short runs and mark with flags and long runs, I use a transit. After the pipe holes are dug, we stretch a wire for guidance.
Keeping post plumb is easy. A 12" magnetic level flipped between north/south and east/west. One holds it steady while the other tamps. We are doing a bunch of push in corners now and my crew hates them. We are to particular about it being perfect for push in. Push in is always off.
Saddles.... string line it and mark it. If you need a pattern, find another guy to run the torch. A good saddle cutter should be able to pick the scrap he cut off and slam it on the fresh cut pipe horizontally. That little scrap should be nice and level as well as weldable.
As far as poking holes being stronger, no. You weld a full ring around sucker rod and you crystallize it all the way around. You make a 20 maybe 30 year fence with pressure. Weld it on the side if the pipe and you crystallize just the top and bottom 1/4. It will stay and not snap.
A simple jig is a piece of big angle that goes over the top rail with a vertical that has ears welded on it. | |
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Pipe fence building 101 efficiency ideas?
