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Gleaner guys- separator grate adjustment/setup
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berggrenfarms
Posted 9/30/2016 08:40 (#5556584 - in reply to #5556479)
Subject: RE: Gleaner guys- separator grate adjustment/setup


Nebraska, The land of corn and cattle

DrAllis - 9/30/2016 07:34 On the R-50/52 I always run one reverse bar up against the gearbox end. It isn't stupid..... for corn and beans it works great. In early season corn, the upper concave tends to plug(left side) with sticks and leaves. Needs to sometimes be cleaned every day because it plugs. That one lone reverse bar pretty much eliminates that problem in corn, and doesn't seem to have any negative effect. I always run a second reverse bar in the center section 180 degrees to the one against the gearbox. Finally, two reverse bars on the discharge end 90 degrees to the first two. My rotor losses in corn and soybeans are minimal and rotor appetite is just fine. Adjustable sep grates get every other wire pulled in my neighborhood for corn and beans. Only way to go.


If thats what works for you thats great, but I can tell you that we cut rotor rumble down by at least 75% in green stemmed beans by taking those 2 reverse bars off the threshing end and adding spacers under the theshing bars on our CDF. Before that it was a stock configuration.  

IMHO, pulling the wires is just making up for another issue. Why not focus on not trying to make those small pieces of cob? I might sound like a broken record here, but I believe that the reverse bars on the threshing end are a big cause of the broken cobs. They make the cobs and other MOG start to tumble, which in theory does help release the grain, BUT in our experiance keeping a thin mat of crop going through as smoothly as possible works just as well or better without the horsepower loss that reverse bars take.  If youve ever looked at a rotor thats had some acres run through it youll see that the most wear to the bars happens on and around the reverse bars, that seems to tell me that theres an issue there. That being said, we do have 2 reverse bars on the very end of the rotor, I think we could probably do without at least one, maybe both, but right now it works so well I dont really see a reason to mess with it.

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