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DE | I know it can be aggravating when you have to spend money to repair old equipment or spend on new or newer equipment, but I think it will be money well spent on the newer 1020. We had a 1440 with 820 and then got a 1020 and what an improvement. The 1020 is so much lighter and floats and flexes so much better. If possible, get one with the newer oil bath wobble box instead of greasable bearings. I've put 12 yrs on the oil unit with no failures other than a leaky seal on output shaft that I was able to change myself a couple of yrs ago. The 1020 also has the hydraulic fore/aft reel adj. but you will have to put hand cranks on unless you rig up auxiliary hydraulics for it. Also, if you plug header the auger will raise a few inches when reel is raised all the way up to make it easier to unplug. As you might already know, the 1020 is setup/ designed for the electrical potentiometer instead of the mechanical cable for auto height control. But it will work with the cable adapter setup. Just make sure that you have the appropriate valves open and closed for auto header control. And there is also a coupler body that needs to unscrewed to first thread or screwed tight (can't remember) for auto header control. If everything is right on the combine, you should be able to push plunger in relatively easy by hand to raise header. I didn't have something set right and my plunger was hard to push and the light header tubing and sensor arms that clamp to the tubing would flex and spin on tubing and header would dig. The 1020 plastic tines won't bust any sickles either if they happen to hit. To adjust pitch of tines, there is only one nut on left side with handle, nice. Also, when you move the reels ahead, they actually go down a little to help pick up stuff. On the 820, they went up and that really pissed me off more than anything else. Go with the 1020 if at all possible. I think you will really be pleased. Those 820's were hardly a step above rigid headers in my opinion. | |
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IH 1440 and 1020 head
