Between Omaha and Des Moines, 7 miles South of I80 | I've been reading both of your threads.
Now, that the flow of both the old and new radiators have been tested = equal; then I would want to go back and review your story or timeline.
I way I read your story, is that you only changed the radiator, then immediately went to the field and at that moment, it starts overheating. I mean to say, that absolutely nothing else was changed or altered!
No t-stats, No water pump and/or No fan clutch was done, WHEN the new (slightly different) radiator was installed. Is this correct? [That's how I read your story]
Question: where radiator and t-stats replaced at the same time ????
Knowing that the new radiator flow tested, the same as old radiator, I would be removing those new t-stats and boiling them, in water, on your kitchen stove. Hang them for an old, wire clothes hanger(bent in a horseshoe shape or "-\___/-" shape = t-stat must be completely submerged), put your wifes cooking thermometer in the water(don't let it set on bottom of pan, either=faulty measurement), to monitor temps, bring water up to 180-190F and stir the water, bring the temp up slowly, so you can watch for those new t-stats to see when they crack open = that is their opening temp=that's how they are rated.[my guess is that they are either 180F or 190F rating]
now, keep raising the water temp to boiling, but at around 205F (my guess) you need to lift t-stat slightly(out of water) and take a measurement of the opening. (note: the t-stats that I have been around = they needed to be open 3/8" or more at 205-206F; but go ahead and raise temp to boiling (212F) and take another opening measurement, too. (should be more than 3/8" for the styles, that I have been around.)
Yes, I have ran into bad, faulty, brand new t-stats before=wouldn't open far enough.(Remember how I mentioned, that is test of measuring top and bottom radiator tank temps is only accurate, IF t-stats are fully open= This is why I question the actual condition of these t-stats, and a little bit of this has to do with the oil cooler area coolant temp measurement, that I thought should have been much closer to your lower radiator hose temp of 176F, from your testing)
I went to tractorhouse.com and fastline.com to try and see a picture of your engine, but no luck. Can you post any pictures of t-stats (old ones or new ones; I want to know the type/style that they are ) and show a picture of water pump to oil cooler area of the engine itself.?(If not, no problem)
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