You have a much bigger job in front of you. [CAM GEAR IS SOLIDLY PRESSED ONTO THE CAM ITSELF, must come out as a unit]

Must also remove valve covers, jakes, jake spacers, all rocker arms and pushrods.

Then you must bent heavy wires to hook and hold each individual cam roller UP (All 18), down inside the block area. (we cut wire coat hangers, they are stiff enough) Other option is completely pull the cylinder head.

You also have to remove the fuel lines/hoses from the transfer pump, and then the long two bolts that hold it "UP" into the rear of the cam, where its drive gear is at. These are really FUN to get at. Next , you have to get that SOB down, without cocking it too much or it will hang up and bind in its alum. bore. DON'T ruin that bore either, because an o-ring seals in there to stop oil. Note: I've heard that some people actually remove the starter to get at those two transfer pump mounting bolts. 2nd note: also recommend you unhook batteries, because you will be working right above the starter solenoid went you start dealing with that transfer pump area.

If you are absolutely sure you have the correct two mount bolts for the transfer pump removed, sometimes you can lightly tap, from the top, internally, on the transfer pumps drive gear/shaft, and it will slid down its bore easier, than taking prybars and screwdrivers externally, outside the engine. Sometimes they come out great, others are a bear.

Once all the stuff is off the cam, you than pull the rear "thrust pin" (hold-in pin) above the transfer pump. Now, if the front cover is off, you then can pull/slid out the entire cam. Note: remove that RPM/Timing sensor from the front cover and set it in a safe place.

Next, to remove idler gears, you need some "hook bars" [Kinda like small crowbars]. You remove the center bolts in their stub shafts, then I screw the bolt back in a turn or two, so the gear doesn't fall, when i start prying/wiggling out the gear and stub shaft (as a unit) by using "hook bars" behind the gear itself, using two bars as close to 180 degrees apart from each other as possible. They don't wiggle out too hard, with the right tools.

All the extra stuff, like water pump, oil pump, air compressor, p.s. steering pump must either be off or kinda hanging there with wire as you finally get to the point of removing the front timing cover.

We normally remove the oil pan completely, then we have a piece of angle iron we bolt to the bottom of the block and use wood blocks and a bottle jack to hold up the engine.