Hagen Brothers farms,Goodrich ND | I assume the tractor has a voltmeter ? . Some because of a gauge or wiring defect are not very accurate. Check the voltage at the battery posts with the engine at 3/4 throttle and the lights and other load on / off. The minimum voltage that will work is 13.5 and 14.2 is ideal. Unless those lights have a lot of loss in places like the ballast (heat ?) 35 watts at 12V would only be a bit more than 3 running amps per light, X8 = 25 amps to run those lights.
You should have plenty of alternator to run lights and charge batteries, run cab blower.
Checking voltage at the alt BAT stud and again at the battery posts should tell if the alternator is putting out enough voltage and if you have a wiring problem ( big voltage drop (difference)between reading at alt BAT stud and battery posts).
My two older combines always indicate low voltage at the voltmeter in the cab, but it reads a correct 14V at the battery, so I ignore the cab meter reading. On my combines, the alt and batteries are connected by short heavy cables at the rear of the combine, while the voltmeter and all the heavy electrical load of lights and cab AC are located at the other end of 20+ ft of 30 year old wiring, With a normal reading at the battery, I blame an old voltmeter and a long old wiring run for the inaccurate voltage reading. Yours may be the same if the voltage is correct at the battery with all lights and other load turned on.
It might pay to smell and feel your stock wiring for heating while under a full load.
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Need some Alternator help.
