no welfare payments on this farm!!!!!!!! | 6 parts ca to 1 part mg for starters. then let your crops tell you how much farther to spread it but do it slowly after that for other reasons. watch the guys who failed using the albrecht model and you will figure out why you work slow at the last final tuning of the soil. as for the ph not sure if i have looked at the ph of a soil test in 5 years. the date which the soil test was took on will tell you more then the ph. i can change the ph of a soil with bacteria, temp, time of year, 7 differant elements, humic content, and even how much it is compacted. if you have a system worked out with ph on your farms then keep working with it, but this soil test is teeter tottering on buiding a factory to make bricks or try to make it into a soil to farm. i think one of hte soil samples is very close to the exact cookie recipe for bricks from pennsalvania. if you are going to wait for that sample to have a low ph before you put on the lime to fix it you are going to either be very rich from selling bricks or very poor from farming. great question, and i guess i never asked the OP what his intention was, but i assumed it was to raise some kick but crops and not make bricks. great questions and to the OP, 5 years from now you are going to be alot happier. give it time, it wont happen overnight, stay the course and you will fix this soil. lots of guys have and i bet you will hear from them on here. farm this soil like its the garden, dont ever work it wet even if it means letting this spot sit for a year. push your covers that attack compaction as much as you can. you may even consider doing a 5 year cash flow where you dont farm it for a eyar and pile on the covercrops liek raddishes and small grains with big root systems. this one year of making a envirooment that the added elements can work better in may be the smartest thing you can do on this spot for the next 5 years. good luck |
Soil test advice please
