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Infurrow starter on soybeans
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lawfarms
Posted 2/8/2014 16:23 (#3673782 - in reply to #3673283)
Subject: RE: Infurrow starter on soybeans



King City, Mo
Lets start with a soil test and also look at your soil texture.

If you could hold off and not plant when its wet and cold. When the first guy rolls with a planter or something it just makes you nervous as if I should be out there too.

I have herd that if soil nitrogen or nitriate or something is above 50# at planting that can screw with nodulation. I'm adding 100# of ams when I spread my fertilizer for the beans. That will add 21# of N.

I am innoculating my beans at the seed co and then adding a planter box innoculant. (I grow tofu beans so want all the N and roots to get higher Protein)

Soybeans can only produce so much N via nodulation. 40-260# with 100# being typical per a chart I got from a big ole book.

The rest will come from organic matter (10-30# per %SOM) and mineralization of the leaves and plant if I'm remembering right.

There was some studies done with late N applied to soybeans. You need 60+bu yield potential or so according to them. Study was done in Kansas I think. I don't have the link handy.

Also look beyond n p k. All of my beans here in NW mo were showing a boron and managneese defiency at full flower. Look at Ligbys Law. Just think if you got a big ole truck with a huge hp motor its cool and all but you gotta get the power to the ground. If you keep blowing the tranny or driveshaft ect it don't add things to get more hp, spend the money on the weakest links.

Soybeans respond to soil fertility and corn responds to fertilizer.

The 7 Habits of Highly Effective People is a good read. One of the habits is "Begin with end In Mind" its a new version of Think and Grow Rich by Nepolean Hill who studied the most successful people of his time to find things in common they all did.
So have a good plan before the seed is in the ground.

There are no special whitches brews or wonder in a jug product that will add lots of bushels everywhere, every year.

It's not cheap to build a healthy balanced fertile soil but I'm in this for the long haul. If you don't own the land its hard to fix things as the rents high you don't have the cash flow to. If you do get things fixed then someone else may offer more money for it. If you buy land and borrow a good chunk of the money your strapped for cash to improve things.

Just remember, nobody should care more about your crop then you. Not the seed guy, chem guy, fertilizer guy, or your hired man.






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