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Faunsdale, AL | What model tractor do you have? The reason I ask is you mention a 2 speed which sounds like a D7 or D8 with the upright pony motor instead of the D6 with the horizontal opposed 2 cylinder.
On a D6 9U and all the CAT's smaller than that, there are 2 levers that are used to connect the pony to the main engine to crank it. The one to the front of the tractor is a clutch/brake and the one to the rear is the pinion engage lever. When the clutch lever doesn't snap in, most likely problem is the adjusment has changed or something has come loose inside. There should be a cover on the front of the housing there that can be removed and you should see a typical "over center" clutch there with a lock pin holding an adjustment collar. Pry the pin out with a screwdriver and turn the adjustment collar until you get a proper (light) "snap in, snap out" action. With the pinion engaged in the flywheel (rear lever pulled up, the pinion shaft should not turn as you try to adjust the clutch. If it does turn, try holding the pony flywheel/starter belt as you turn the adjustment. I would start by loosening the adjustment if the lever doesn't seem to be going as far as it used to. Sometimes the adjustment will wind itself tighter if the lock pin doesn't hold properly. If it's too tight, no possiblilty of it snapping in, but I would have thought you could hold it in and make it turn the main engine. Does your pinion shift lever latch in properly or do you have to hold up on it until the main engine starts?
X2 on ACMOC
Also another online group called ACME, not sure which one you could get signed onto quicker, they're setup to avoid spammers, so it's not as easy as some boards.
Any questions, I'll be glad to answer here or can scan and post some sections of the Tech manual if needed. This one is one I already have scanned in my computer that shows the cross section of the pinion clutch. If you unbolt the cover holding the operating lever on the side of the housing (oil will drain), you should be looking at this same thing.
Most of the work that might need to be done on the clutch and brake part of the pinion unit can be done with the pinion still installed on the engine by removing the front cover and housing to get to the clutch mechanism and disks etc. If you want to exchange the whole thing, the radiator must be drained down and the pony motor oil drained before lifting the pony motor so the pinion can come out past the idler gear that sticks down out of the bottom of the pony motor. Much easier to just work on the clutch with it in place if at all possible.
Edited by ccjersey 8/24/2012 07:32
 (pony motor clutch modification 2.jpg)
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 pony motor clutch modification 2.jpg (68KB - 1159 downloads)
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CAT pony motor/diesel starting problem
