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incorporating straw
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bleedgreen720
Posted 10/15/2020 22:20 (#8548007)
Subject: incorporating straw


AB.
was spiking the field then discing. Its slow but does ok. Everyone around me heavy harrows and no tills. I tried that on some this spring and it was so wet i finally tilled it so i could get through it a few days later. Field im working on was a massive crop of oats disc has trouble cutting the residue in spots
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Haybale
Posted 10/16/2020 12:13 (#8548806 - in reply to #8548007)
Subject: RE: incorporating straw


WC Iowa
Well, Alberta is a long way from Iowa so my thoughts may not apply. And I am just a newcomer to the soil health world so I don't know much. However, it sounds like you have a shortage of soil life in your ground. We don't raise as good oats as your area does, but watching my oats straw decompose this summer and fall there was a range in speed based on rotation and soil type.. Some fields had the straw gone in two months, some in three, and a few areas still have a little left. You didn't say what you fertility program or herbicide program is but these may make a difference on the amount of soil life. Anhydrous ammonia may be detrimental as well as glyphosate. We don't know for sure because there is no money from a big corporation to do trials. Maybe try a few acres with clover or alfalfa for nitrogen and use a mower instead of a spray if possible. It will take a couple years but the difference may be huge.

Also, do you happen to use Roundup just before harvest as a harvest aid?

I do know that soil life in general has been overlooked as a driver in many plant production areas. There are billions of little critters out there willing to work for us if we just improve their environment.

Edited by Haybale 10/16/2020 12:30
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paul the original
Posted 10/16/2020 12:39 (#8548839 - in reply to #8548806)
Subject: RE: incorporating straw


southern MN
I won’t speak for Alberta, but here I. Minnesota in my wet cold clay soils, we would be lucky to get 3 months of soil activity to break down straw. When it’s warm enough for activity to happen, the soils are often totally saturated so all activity shuts down.

Tile has helped, but it only can do so much.

Our organic matter and such remains high, even with full tillage and all, as things just don’t break down so much in a 12 month period.

Paul
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Haybale
Posted 10/16/2020 13:24 (#8548887 - in reply to #8548839)
Subject: RE: incorporating straw


WC Iowa
Right, I get it. The original poster may want to check out some of the you tube videos about Gabe Brown. He farms near Bismark, North Dakota and would be in a climate closer to Alberta's. Gabe has developed very healthy soils and I would guess he has rapid straw decomposition.
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paul the original
Posted 10/16/2020 14:11 (#8548928 - in reply to #8548887)
Subject: RE: incorporating straw


southern MN
Yup, it is a lot drier and somewhat warmer west, likely up to Alberta as well they catch those warm spiral winds every now and then. So it is likely better there too.

I heard Gabe in a seminar once. That was, interesting.

Paul
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bleedgreen720
Posted 10/17/2020 11:52 (#8550195 - in reply to #8548928)
Subject: RE: incorporating straw


AB.
I watched some gabe browns seminars on youtube. Interesting. I never heard much of what his wheat or corn yields in comparison to his neighbours or the real numbers on margins. If I was his neighbour and he was putting way more money in his pocket than I was why wouldn't I be doing it ? He would certainly be willing to teach me how and give me insight but yet they don't ? Obviuosly not til has benefits, shade the soil conserve moisture and so on.... I'm just not there yet I guess. Maybe buy a 0 till drill and try. I'm not sold on cocktail crops either. If I spray down a hay field and miss a portion and seed through that spot the grass always overtakes the crop
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NWNODAK
Posted 10/17/2020 16:45 (#8550462 - in reply to #8550195)
Subject: RE: incorporating straw


NWND
bleedgreen720 - 10/17/2020 10:52

I watched some gabe browns seminars on youtube. Interesting. I never heard much of what his wheat or corn yields in comparison to his neighbours or the real numbers on margins. If I was his neighbour and he was putting way more money in his pocket than I was why wouldn't I be doing it ? He would certainly be willing to teach me how and give me insight but yet they don't ? Obviuosly not til has benefits, shade the soil conserve moisture and so on.... I'm just not there yet I guess. Maybe buy a 0 till drill and try. I'm not sold on cocktail crops either. If I spray down a hay field and miss a portion and seed through that spot the grass always overtakes the crop


From what i have heard. He makes more money telling people what to do than it actually corresponding to real dollars on his farm. I don't think he's outdoing any of his neighbors.
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harristonloam
Posted 10/17/2020 15:47 (#8550413 - in reply to #8548806)
Subject: RE: incorporating straw


Alberta Canada
There is a lot things that are different up here.

1. Straw yield, long cool days are perfect for cereals.

2. Dry late summer/fall weather, The straw is often in excellent condition at harvest and has little receives little rainfall before freeze up.

3. Cold, Frozen straw dosen't break down. It was -8c last night, and harvest just finishing.

4. Cold springs, the frost isn't always out of the ground at planting time.
Not much time to warm up, dry out, or break down straw.



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bleedgreen720
Posted 10/17/2020 16:43 (#8550460 - in reply to #8550413)
Subject: RE: incorporating straw


AB.
harristonloam - 10/18/2020 14:47

There is a lot things that are different up here.

1. Straw yield, long cool days are perfect for cereals.

2. Dry late summer/fall weather, The straw is often in excellent condition at harvest and has little receives little rainfall before freeze up.

3. Cold, Frozen straw dosen't break down. It was -8c last night, and harvest just finishing.

4. Cold springs, the frost isn't always out of the ground at planting time.
Not much time to warm up, dry out, or break down straw.

Agreed .. I don't want to pulverize soil but a little black showing to help things warm up. Where I wintered cows the feeding spots had ice under them through may til I removed the cover and worked through it. In a normal field situation I think if the straw is beat up and laying close to the surface like after a heavy harrowing it will break down fairly quickly over the summer. I think I might have more issues with long canola stubble that is worked free clogging harrows or narrow spaced drills. Going to try and heavy harrow that and no till oats next year. No perfect answer, go burn some diesel I guess





Edited by bleedgreen720 10/17/2020 16:44
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Alberta Cowman
Posted 10/17/2020 19:09 (#8550612 - in reply to #8548007)
Subject: RE: incorporating straw


Is the straw chopped or is it long due to being lodged and on the ground?

How heavy of disk are you using? I know my wishek will handle way more trash than my chisel plow will. This was yesterday on some fall rye grazing aftermath. It was only cleared a couple years ago and still has lots of roots otherwise I’d no till it.

I like the job that a pro till does but it’s hard to stomach a 6 figure tillage tool.

It’s easy to spend someone else’s money but I think you should look at a no till disk drill. I am always amazed at what my BG 4710 disk drill will go through. 4’ tall rose bushes and snowed under 70 bu barley crops don’t faze it. I’ve had neighbours say I’m crazy when I tell them I’m going to seed a piece instead of disking it first. Maybe I am?

Edited by Alberta Cowman 10/17/2020 19:11




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bleedgreen720
Posted 10/17/2020 22:10 (#8550939 - in reply to #8550612)
Subject: RE: incorporating straw


AB.
Alberta Cowman - 10/18/2020 18:09

Is the straw chopped or is it long due to being lodged and on the ground?

How heavy of disk are you using? I know my wishek will handle way more trash than my chisel plow will. This was yesterday on some fall rye grazing aftermath. It was only cleared a couple years ago and still has lots of roots otherwise I’d no till it.

I like the job that a pro till does but it’s hard to stomach a 6 figure tillage tool.

It’s easy to spend someone else’s money but I think you should look at a no till disk drill. I am always amazed at what my BG 4710 disk drill will go through. 4’ tall rose bushes and snowed under 70 bu barley crops don’t faze it. I’ve had neighbours say I’m crazy when I tell them I’m going to seed a piece instead of disking it first. Maybe I am?

\

In spots its lodged and long and others the one combine didn't do a great job chopping and straw is long. A wishek would be nice, have an old 20' JD 220 disc. Running the spikes over it then hitting with the disc does a decent job except where the cultivator leaves a few piles. I only crop 600 ish acres, Its tough to fathom spending more than 20-30k on a drill
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bleedgreen720
Posted 10/17/2020 22:18 (#8550953 - in reply to #8550939)
Subject: RE: incorporating straw


AB.
that 4710 looks like a tank of a drill. How do they pull ? What does it weigh ? Also how big of wishek is that and how many hp to pull it ? We are flat ground here I thought my 320hp would pull a twenty something foot wishek ?


Edited by bleedgreen720 10/17/2020 22:23
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Alberta Cowman
Posted 10/18/2020 20:33 (#8552475 - in reply to #8550953)
Subject: RE: incorporating straw


bleedgreen720 - 10/17/2020 21:18

that 4710 looks like a tank of a drill. How do they pull ? What does it weigh ? Also how big of wishek is that and how many hp to pull it ? We are flat ground here I thought my 320hp would pull a twenty something foot wishek ?


It’s a beast and pulls like a cat by the tail. Drill alone weighs about 28k lbs. Pulled it for several years with our versatile 875 set at 350 hp but I got too proficient at changing broken axle shafts and tubes. It handled the drill fine on the level but really struggled in the hills. Now pull it with 475 hp and it’s a good match in the hills.

It was only $24k with a 3225 cart about 10 years ago.

The wishek is a 22’ 842NT with 28” blades. It’s a pretty good load for 280 hp on the level but too much in the hills. I have mostly heavy grey wooded clay. 475 hp pulls it real easy though.

You’re probably right in thinking about a 20-24’ unit for your 320 hp. Of course depending on soil type and whether you’re going 4” deep or to the spools.
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Valleyfarmer
Posted 10/18/2020 09:12 (#8551399 - in reply to #8548007)
Subject: RE: incorporating straw


Morris, Mb.
Just to start, we are in Manitoba and do tillage. How is the chopper on you combine? We run a 2188 and cx8090 with a fine cut chopper. If it’s dry, the Cx just throws powder out, even in 150 bu oats. 2188 always leaves way more residue to run through. Even after tillage, you can see where each combine ran in the spring.
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bleedgreen720
Posted 10/18/2020 09:27 (#8551432 - in reply to #8551399)
Subject: RE: incorporating straw


AB.
Valleyfarmer - 10/19/2020 08:12

Just to start, we are in Manitoba and do tillage. How is the chopper on you combine? We run a 2188 and cx8090 with a fine cut chopper. If it’s dry, the Cx just throws powder out, even in 150 bu oats. 2188 always leaves way more residue to run through. Even after tillage, you can see where each combine ran in the spring.

8820 has a decent chopper, the 1688 I HAD (sold it) needed the chopper rebuilt straw was pretty shaggy coming out of it so that is some of the problem in the low spots mostly.
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