Here is the follow up to the thread from last night.

https://talk.newagtalk.com/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=765445

I glued up a 4" piece last night and gave it til noon today to make sure it was fully cured. Seems to work good if you leave a bit sticking out past the fitting to grab hold of and collapse inward.

I had a heat gun and small butane torch for heating up the inner pipe.

On the 4" pipe I used the heat gun to evenly heat the area where the glue was inside the fitting. On this size the heat transfers pretty good and pretty evenly seems if you just start seeing a little brown then it is about soft enough. 

A pair of vise grips locked onto the part extending from the fitting is used to start the twisting. You can tell when locking them on how soft the pipe has gotten so they need to dig in a little more than usual. Once locked on you start twisting them and collapsing the pipe inward.

On the 4 inch it peels out relatively easily.

Here is the fitting after removal you can see not much scarring and actually pretty smooth inside.

A close up inside the fitting.

Okay this looks pretty good and promising but this was glued up last night. I've had good luck with the 2" and 4" so lets try the 6". Only concern is this was probably glued together about 1988 or 1989 I wonder if it will release or be too brittle ?

I measured the length I needed for a replacement. I used some paper painters tape to tape around the pipe to give a good guide to cut. I had to remove the vise off my chop saw and turn the pipe while pushed tight against the backstop to get it cut off squarely. The edge of the tape made it easy to see where the cut needed to be.

Started heating with the heat gun but was not getting much softening even after several minutes. I fired up the butane torch to get some more heat going and to heat more area. Started seeing some more severe scorching by the time it started getting a little soft.

I finally got one part hot enough to start collapsing inward. The glue seemed to release just fine but it was a bunch harder twisting the vise grips to collapse the pipe. It was maybe twice as hard doing the 4" vs. the 2" but the 6" was probably at least 4 times harder than the 4". I grabbed a big adjustable wrench and put it sideways on the vise grips to get more leverage. That helped a lot but it was hard to do that hold the pipe and keep the heat going and snap a picture or two.

I really could have used a little more heat from perhaps a propane torch but I had it started and did not want to stop and start over so I just kept gradually working it loose as I moved the heat around the pipe.

Success at last.

The rust is from the years of use with dry fertilizer where the old end cap had rusted onto the plastic.

Very clean removal of pipe from fitting. The brown here is rust which I removed with some 0000 steel wool and a light sanding with fine grit sandpaper.

Close up inside the tee. I did not precut the pipe or use a screwdriver to pry it loose as I wanted to preserve this inside in the best shape possible.

Here is the pipe removed and you can still see the pink printing on it even after being glued and heated to remove. I really would have expected more smearing of the plastic from the solvent cement.

A quick check of the new piece in the fitting showed that it was still a good tight fit the same as it would have been when new.

Cleaned with clear primer and used a good amount of glue so I could rotate and push in for maximum adhesion. Actually had to use block of wood and dead blow hammer to fully seat it in place so a very good tight fit. Had a black mark around the new pipe to make sure it got drove far enough in as this would affect the length of the auger flighting exiting the other end.

Motor plate fits snugly on the new piece but I did not drill for the new holes just yet. Wanted to give it plenty of time to cure and get hung back on wagon for proper alignment before making it permanent.

I was glad this turned out so well and since I figured I got to be the test subject for all of you on this project I would document and share it here in the hopes it will help somebody else one day and save folks some dollars on these larger more expensive fittings. Not sure if this would be water tight and leak proof but I have no reason to think that it would not be seeing as how it went back together as tightly as new pieces would.

Thanks for indulging my simple projects and for reading this explanation.