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Best way to split a single scv on a Deere 4020 Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
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GLW |
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Northeast Illinois | Like to put a bush hog that requires two remotes on an old 4020 that only has one scv. Any easy low cost ways of doing this? Need a float position on one of the valves so the wings can float. Is one of those hydraulic multipliers about my only option, thanks for any replies. | ||
4beanpod |
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Madison, Mississippi | Unless you plumb up a couple of lines with T's and valves and get down and open and close them every time you want to change which cylinder work with ...then a Fasse kit is the way to go. Find them at Shoup, Sloan, Amazon, etc. | ||
classic 4010 |
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western iowa | I put a Fasse splitter on my 4450 to get to 3 outlets but, would not want to use it every day. I needed it for a hydraulic ejection dirt scraper. I once had a 4020 that only had one outlet and put the second factory one on it. In the long run I think that's the way to go. There used to be a guy in my area that would sell kits to do this with rebuilt valve, outlet and new lever for the dash. This was an older 4020. | ||
tkoppel |
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Sanilac Co. Michigan | GLW - 5/2/2017 08:29 Like to put a bush hog that requires two remotes on an old 4020 that only has one scv. Any easy low cost ways of doing this? Need a float position on one of the valves so the wings can float. Is one of those hydraulic multipliers about my only option, thanks for any replies. Well, there's another way if you don't want to go oem or a Fasse splitter. Tap into pressure line on the right side below the dash, run it to a valve set for a closed center system and a return line to the hydraulic filter cover. Prince offers those kinds of valves. Got to get the fitting that allows for closed center operation of the valve. | ||
SWMOWHEATFARMER |
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SW MO | I just bought the splitter | ||
Fred |
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south east SD | What year 4020? I put a 3rd svc on my 1971 4020. Probably cost twice much as other options, but always there and always works. I am happy I did it. Tractor has a loader on it and had a snowblower for a few years, not any more. Still comes in handy other times. (image.jpeg) Attachments ---------------- image.jpeg (173KB - 68 downloads) | ||
Iowajim |
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NW Iowa | The best all around way to go in the long run is to add a factory valve if you feel you want to go that way. I put a third valve on a 1086 with a loader on it and I've never been sorry. I know I'm comparing apples to oranges with my red tractor but in my case it wasn't that hard to do. Wall Lake tractor parts in Wall Lake Ia had the kit made up and ready with everything but the Orings. They might have a kit made up for 4020's. | ||
Gerald J. |
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By old I presume you mean '68 or earlier. There were so many hydraulic changes between the '68 and '69 and later models that they don't share parts books or shop manuals. Its easier to add SCVs to the later tractors. For a loader on my '68 gas 4020 I tapped pressure line near the brake pedals and set up new outlets and returns. The returns go to the transmission filter cover that I drilled and tapped, but were a standard Deere part for the 2640 and later tractors. I also put flow control valves on the panel with the outlets. It would be easy to add as many remotes as desired using Pioneer connectors and anybody's closed center valves tapping those points. I'd bolt a shelf to the inside of the right fender and mount the valves under the shelf and turn the handles to point up. But I haven't gone beyond the manifold in the picture below. Gerald J. (hydraulicmanifold.jpg) Attachments ---------------- hydraulicmanifold.jpg (29KB - 77 downloads) | |||
Herbie56 |
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Coles County, Illinois | Why not add two more circuits and have them controlled with a right hand joy stick? https://www.shoupparts.com/52205/ https://www.shoupparts.com/51280/ | ||
jdeere57 |
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Pennyrile, West Ky. | ... | ||
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