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educate me on mag motor starters Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
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Hay Hud Ohio |
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SW Ohio | I know just a little more than enough to be dangerous!! but some body tell me what the big difference is between this http://www.ebay.com/itm/7-5-HP-MAGNETIC-STARTER-MOTOR-CONTROL-1-Pha... for $70 and this https://www.grainger.com/product/SQUARE-D-Magnetic-Motor-Starter-2BX... for over $1000 I realize they are not exact in the ratings but am looking for something for a 5 hp single phase 240V auger motor with thermal overload and push buttons. This is for one of my customers that is now using a 2 hp starter that keeps tripping out. Am I looking in the wrong places? Where do you get your electric panel supplies and what are price ranges? Have a good local electrician who does excellent work for around $200/hour!!!! but looking more at DIY | ||
Fingers77 |
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Try Relectric or Southland electric. Both deal with used mag starters. Find a Grainger catalog and see what size heaters you need also if the mag you get has one. Also do a search on here using relectric and southland. Maybe those threads will give you more insight. We pick up ours at auctions or the occasional dumpster dive. | |||
jimgen |
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central mich | We are a pretty large switchgear and motor dealer. The $70 starter is an IEC starter while the $1000 Sq D is a NEMA labeled starter. In short IEC=European , NEMA= US. NEMA rated are much more robust since each size is rated for several motors with different HP sizes. IEC basicly has a size for each motor HP. IEC has won the popularity contest in the last decade. We have a large supply of used and new NEMA product but when we build large distribution systems we use IEC because of the cost and engineering advantages are huge. While IEC are not as heavy duty as NEMA , it does depend on the end user. On some oil rigs IEC perform as well as NEMA , it depends on the rig crew. While most large motors are soft started we have several 250 and 300HP motors across the line with IEC starters and they do fine. Edited by jimgen 1/17/2017 19:20 | ||
45Deere9670 |
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St. Joseph, Champaign County, IL | The cheaper starter you show is an IEC style. The second is a NEMA style. Some reading on the differences… http://ecmweb.com/content/differentiating-between-nema-and-iec-styl... One thing the article above mentions, which is how I think of the 2… NEMA is serviceable, where as IEC is disposable. That's not saying that both don't have their place. With the NEMA starter you have linked, I don't see any way of starting the motor/ closing the contactor, so it looks like you'd need even more material in the form of some kind of start/ stop station. | ||
E718 |
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Sac & Story county IA | Is this on a bin that is unloaded once a year or some similar duty? Some application like that, you can go with cheaper stuff yet. A contactor like this; http://www.ebay.com/itm/CN-PBC403-120V-DEFINITE-PURPOSE-CONTACTOR-4... and an overload relay; http://www.ebay.com/itm/CERUS-INDUSTRIAL-MTK-32-3K-25S-THERMAL-OVER... You will need an enclosure and a NC and NO momentary switches. | ||
Trint |
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North Central OH | The second has the grainger markup and is considered to be a heavier/long lasting more farm tolerant type by our electrician. That being said it doesn't have the buttons you are looking for, can probably be had from an electric supply house for $400-500. Any local commercial electric guys that will sell stuff? we are fortunate to have one that will furnish supplies and guidance, and if its too big we have them do it. | ||
WTF2014 |
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CIL | Temco is our go to place for magnetic starters. Got two running 10hp single phase and they've worked very well. Edited by WTF2014 1/18/2017 02:21 | ||
KDD |
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Leesburg, Ohio | Hudson: Here is what you need: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Square-D-Motor-Starter-w-Elec-Interlock-Nem... In fact, if you don't buy this one in the next few days, I probably will, just to re-build my inventory. I buy all my magnetic contactors on ebay, used, at about 1/10th or less of the cost of new. Have three new grain legs and all associated augers and drags on two farms all running on these used square-d contactors. They are old, but almost bullet-proof. Look for the 8536 series, and make sure they have 120v coils. You can buy new heater strips to put in based on the amperage you need to pull. The new heater strips will cost almost as much as the cheaper contactors, but still way better than paying 1000 to 2000 starting out. Most of mine are NEMA sizes 1, 2, or 3. Only threes I use are on 20hp motors or larger. Everything else on mostly size ones, 10 and 15 hp on size 2. You can use these three phase contactors on single phase motors, just use two sets of terminals. If you need to interlock (keep a bin unload from starting if leg is not running...) some of these have another set of contacts on the side to accommodate that without using another relay. Or just get your coil voltage to supply the starter button current for the auger from a main terminal on the leg, for example. Ken Edited by KDD 1/18/2017 16:41 | ||
Hay Hud Ohio |
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SW Ohio | Ken, not my circus, but I know what you mean, we buy up those things at auctions if they go cheap to put in "inventory". The lurker in question already ordered some IEC's to redo his panel after he tore down the leg and the old panel. The river is full up on non gmo's so he has some time to fix it before we load out more beans. | ||
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