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New Holland 310 baler breaks bales in thrower
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BRF
Posted 7/16/2008 22:47 (#416752)
Subject: New Holland 310 baler breaks bales in thrower


This baler breaks about fifteen percent of the bales at the thrower, always the cut side 100% of the time, does it with plastic or sisal, nomatter what brand of twine, tried it all. Has brand new belts, didn't help a thing. ALWAYS breaks RIGHT at the knot. No problems if you want to make a "pillow" but a fourty to fifty pound bale and you're screwed. Its got to be either damaging the twine at the knot when tieing or it seems to be making the bale tighter on the cut side and we thought it was pulling on that side first, all retarders and hay dogs are in place, everything appears perfect to look at it. We are lost, so's the local NH dealer, dads ready to strangle them. Each and every suggestion would be greatly appreciated, Thank You.
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JoshuaGA
Posted 7/16/2008 23:15 (#416797 - in reply to #416752)
Subject: RE: New Holland 310 baler breaks bales in thrower



Sumner GA, Located in southwest GA,
Take this as a wild shot in the dark, as I have never seen a bale thrower, but 1. can you adjust the thrower to put less pressure on the bale like the bale chamber and or 2. Have you tried taking out the hay dogs in the back of the chamber. Way you describe it, it sounds as though you have too much tension on the bale when it hits the thrower. Does it have a history of this? Have you looked at a few loops off of a good bale for any defects? Doubt this has told you anything you didn't already know.
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HAYBOY1
Posted 7/17/2008 00:10 (#416850 - in reply to #416752)
Subject: RE: New Holland 310 baler breaks bales in thrower


western Massachusetts
Here is another shot in the dark. Are your knives sharp. If they are dull and you are in long hay, the bales don't get cut off completely from one another causing the thrower to hold the bale in the thrower a tad too long and burns the string. Just a wild one, ask Rick B, he is pretty good with this stuff.
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School Of Hard Knock
Posted 7/17/2008 01:05 (#416882 - in reply to #416752)
Subject: RE: New Holland 310 baler breaks bales in thrower


just a tish NE of central ND
Are the string and knots perfect before they get in to the thrower?Or are the bales open before it get in the thrower? Tied ends too short? Is the hay properly cut off on the cut side of the bale or are the bales hooked together by "uncut" hay?
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hillfarmer
Posted 7/17/2008 07:18 (#416945 - in reply to #416882)
Subject: RE: New Holland 310 baler breaks bales in thrower



we had a lot less trouble with Bridon cartage 7200 feet per bale

check to see if the twine tensioner plates coming out of storage

are keeping the same tension on both strings

stop and check the knots before they get to the thrower

they need to be the same
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Hedge tree
Posted 7/17/2008 08:34 (#416987 - in reply to #416752)
Subject: RE: New Holland 310 baler breaks bales in thrower



Central Kansas
Ahhhhh...the delights of a small square baler when you want to go..go..go! Been there and done all this for 35 years and it does not get more enjoyable.

If the broken twine leaves the knot on the bale end (breaks in front of the knot), then you could be getting some twine slippage during the knoting process caused by insufficient pressure at the twine disks. Compare the notches on the right twine disk stack with those on the functioning knotter, you may want to tighten up the twine disks some on that side and see what happens. They can pinch the twine then release it....leaves a weak spot that will break after leaving the comforts of the chamber.

Don't know about the 310.....but sometimes it is necessary to adjust how much hay is placed in the left or right side of the bale. On the newer 500 series NHs and JDs, the 'pull-over' forks can be adjusted to travel farther, or less distance...the less distance places more hay in the near side....the one that is 'popping' for you. If there is an adjustment for this, you might increase hay placement to the left side of the bale chamber.

I have gone to 210 lb twine and don't use a thrower...but sure have better luck with the heavier test twine for my accumlator use.

Good luck....you will eventually find the cause, fix it and be that much wiser about sq. balers. Course....there will be something different next time.
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Beach Farmer
Posted 7/17/2008 08:44 (#416997 - in reply to #416945)
Subject: RE: New Holland 310 baler breaks bales in thrower


East Central MN
I agree, we had the same problems with a 315 & thrower and switched to 7200 twine and the problems nearly all went away. The knots were breaking as the bale exited the chamber into the thrower as the full tension of the bale hits the strings. There's no mention of what twine he's using but that's where I would start, along with the tension frictioners at the twine box. That's 2 cents.
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Rodney R
Posted 7/17/2008 19:36 (#417301 - in reply to #416987)
Subject: Re: New Holland 310 baler breaks bales in thrower


SE PA
I'm not at all familiar with the 310, but I suspect that it has a knotter very much like the 575. If so, there are 2 springs I would look at - one is on the right hand side of each knotter, and has just a small 'nut' to tighten it - I would make sure both sides are the same, and maybe adjust trial and error style to see if that makes any difference. Also, there is a flat plate 'spring' that is on the right hand side of the middle, and it has some sort of nut as well, make sure that both of them are the same, and the one in question is not broken. You might also check the billhook, make sure it's not bent, make sure that the 'holder' gizmo moves freely, and is not bent. There are some other things to check, but I can't remember them, check your book, make certain everything is looking perfect from one side to the other.

Rodney
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95h
Posted 7/18/2008 02:14 (#417543 - in reply to #416752)
Subject: RE: Never saw a "thrower" work,, but things to check...


Kittitas Co. Wa. State

Kinda shooting blindfolded not knowing which side of the bale the knot is breaking, so here's a laundry list of "possibles" from my experience..... 

1. see if the hay dogs are worn more on one side and check the hay dog springs,

2. flip up the knotters and very closely inspect the bill hooks. (I looked at the bill hooks on the Freeman 330 and they "looked" ok,, but after driving out the offending billhook's roll pin,, I found the dang thing was broke.) I replaced the roll pin and the bill hook worked perfectly again. Looked fine physically but under the stress of tying a knot, the hook wouldn't hold the twine properly..

3. check the twine disk holders, the offending side may not be holding the twine tight enough when the billhook is tying a knot. Tighten the twine holder springs. You may have to advance or retard the twine holder, check to see they are set where they should be.

4. Check the twine knives,, they should be sharp enough to shave with.

5. Check the arm the knife is on, it should just "barely" clear the bill hook to sweep the knot off the bill hook. (with a freeman "they" suggest the arm should actually just "tick" the bottom of the bill hook as it passes by sweeping the completed knot off the billhook) If memory serves,, the "adjustment" to the arm is done with a big Crescent wrench and arm power so the knife arm is close enough to the billhook. Check the bearings on the ends of the arms,they should roll "silky smooth"

6. Check the knotter gears on the billhook, etc.. make sure they are worn equally. (I found the bill hook gear worn more on 1 than the other two which was just enough to allow the bill hook to turn just enough slower to miss the twine, and miss the tie.)

6. Get a bale out of the baler before it goes through the thrower,, or watch so you know exactly which way the bale came out of the baler,, and see if the tension is the same on both strings.  The feed forks may be packing more hay on the right hand side (as you're facing forward on the tractor seat) or on the left hand side.  If the right side string is tighter, move the bale chamber feed forks to the left.If the Left side of the bale is tighter, move the feed forks to the right.  (The feed forks for the bale chamber move the opposite of what seems logical to adjust where the hay is placed in the bale chamber. it's about how much hay is forked into the bale chamber. Feed forks moved "right" more hay on left side of bale, move feed forks left, more hay on right side of bale.)

A 50# bale really isn't all that much weight, etc.. 240 lb twine should have adaquate knot strength to pack lightweight bales.

As stated,, I've never seen a bale thrower work, shoot only seen 1-2 pictures of them but I seriously doubt the bale thrower is breaking the bales.

On second reading of your post,, first try moving the first set of feeder forks (the ones that go fartherest into the bale chamber) to the right a few inches. That will place more hay on the left side of the bale.

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WYDave
Posted 7/18/2008 12:04 (#417749 - in reply to #416752)
Subject: RE: New Holland 310 baler breaks bales in thrower


Wyoming

I've had something similar happen to me with twine breaking very close to the knot. It turned out to be a burr on the knot wiper arm. Upon close examination of the string, about 30% of the string fibers had been cut, no more than about 3/8" behind the knot.

The problem turned out to be the knot wiper arm. On the Hesston baler, these are "adjusted" with a hammer - you whack them until they're just contacting the billhook. As the arm would come across, it rubs on the billhook, and over time, this creates a slight burr on the edge of the wiper arm.

We simply used a round file and took the burr down.

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