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boa628 |
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SWOH | Are all blue handled hitch pins grade 8? From what I've looked at, the ones that are advertised as grade 8 are blue handled but not all blue handled are advertised as grade 8. Thanks for any info. | ||
3w farms |
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S.E. Iowa | grade 8 refers to bolts and fasteners so advertising a hitch pin as grade 8 would have no meaning. unless your using bolt for hitch pins | ||
boa628 |
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SWOH | So labeling these grade 8 (blue) and grade 5 (red) has no meaning? Is there another way to determine strength? http://www.messicks.com/dept/HitchPinsClevises.aspx Edited by boa628 9/7/2013 08:56 | ||
smilin jack |
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SW North Dakota | Well 3W, you kind of wrong there... they do make grade 8 hitch pins. Several sources on the web http://mydbsupply.com/index.php/farm-ranch/fencing/3-4-x6-1-2-hitch... | ||
Minuteman Farmer |
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I didn't think there would be a difference until shopping for some lately and noticed some marked as grade 8 and other as grade 5. Strength of steel doesn't just apply to nuts and bolts. In the stores I was in the grade 8 were blue handled and grade 5 were red handled but they were made by different manufacturers. A quick look on the internet and I found grade 5 and grade 8 hitch pins with a variety of different color handles. | |||
bigfarmer1486 |
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Ringwood, IL (NEIL) | I never noticed that the blue handle and red handles coincided with strength. Good to know. Most of mine are red. Should I be concerned if they are grade 5 instead of 8? | ||
jakescia |
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Oskaloosa, Iowa 52577 | What is the theory for the "better" grade? 8 or 5? I was always told that when there is any slap----- and there usually is-------- when pulling, that a slightly softer metal is better.......so that the pin does not snap because of being too brittle. The answer?? Merely having enough thickness to handle the problem?
(Any metal engineers in the crowd?) Edited by jakescia 9/7/2013 09:38 | ||
chadincolo |
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Lander, WY | Short answer, no. Depends on the manufacturer. HH i think the gray heads are grade 8? Don't count on color unless you know who made it. As a former employee of one manufacturer, the grade of pins does correspond to material and heat treat of bolts. We did test samples from each lot. Grade 8 is much stronger, but is more brittle, so for impact strength (the above slop/slamming) a grade 5 would be better. For steady pulls, grade 8. | ||
mrsc |
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As for chain, grade 7 and 8 was made from alloy steel and Grade 43, from carbon steel. The strength difference was significant. The only difference between 7 and 8 was the warranty. Edited by mrsc 9/8/2013 07:33 | |||
DANM3300 |
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THANK YOU boa628 I LEARNED SOMETHING TODAY. | |||
scott nelsen |
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Leeds, North Dakota | There is sheer and tensionsion, bolt is only strong as its shank, not treads, Scott. | ||
boa628 |
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SWOH | So if you have the right sized pin where there is no slop a grade 8 would be better, but if you have the right sized pin for the implement but the drawbar hole is wore out a little to where there is a little movement on the drawbar a grade 5 would be better...am I understanding that right? | ||
boa628 |
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SWOH | It doesn't matter what color they are apparently. I found some red handled pins that were grade 8 also. And green handled that were grade 8. I looked at Tractor Supply this afternoon and the red handled ones they have are grade 5. The pins themselves don't have any markings on them, just on the sticker. I don't think it's a huge deal what grade they are, as long as you get rid of them if they show any cracks or wear spots. The reason I started paying a little more attention was I found a 1" pin in our shop that had worn down in the middle and started to bend and I'm pretty sure I know what it was used on and I'd rather find something a little more suitable for that piece of equipment. I think it had more to do with the pin being undersized in diameter than anything. Edited by boa628 9/7/2013 16:34 | ||
bharzman |
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North Central Kansas | If you want a good hitch pin....take an old hyd cylinder and cut it down those last! | ||
scott nelsen |
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Leeds, North Dakota | Old spindle shafts are hard, Scott. | ||
dvswia |
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sw corner ia. | the absolute best ever drawbar pin I ever concocted was the spider (differential) axle out of the rear end of my 4320. it was about 1 1/4" titanium. Edited by dvswia 9/7/2013 20:02 | ||
Jon Hagen |
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Hagen Brothers farms,Goodrich ND | I used to use car axle shafts for hitch pins. Very hard , I cant tell you what grade equivelent, but the axle / pins would not wear, but wear the drawbar and implement hith much faster. Which is better bolts, grade 5 or grade 8 ? It depends on what your doing with it I suppose. Many years ago I repowered an old 125 Versatile with a diesel of about 2X the original HP. Too much engine for the traction, so I dualled both ends of the old versatile. Then it started to pop the grade 8 bolts that attached the front axle to the frame. Tried two different sets of grade 8 bolts, including the best "CAT" bolts. Still popped the heads of those bolts. As a last resort, I replaced the grade 8 bolts with grade 5 and never broke another bolt ????? Found another weak point in that old versys driveline after doubling both HP and traction.. Ran the top shaft bearing out of the transmission after 20 hrs. Replaced that $10 single row ball bearing and 20 hrs later it was out again. Went back to the dealer wondering if there was any sort of "heavy duty" bearing avalible. Old Art pawed through the parts book and found a 2 row roller bearing that was used in the late 145 transmissions. That was the fix, although it cost $110 at the time. The old partsman / owner joked " If I would have known that bearing cost that much, I would have taken it home with me every night. " ;) | ||
NWMOFarmer |
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Buchanan County MO | Grade 5 bolts are stronger in a shear configuration. Grade 8 bolts handle more tensile loading (allowing higher preload). In a hitch pin situation, where there is no preload, and there is almost always a bending load as well as a shear (clevis is usually wider than the drawbar is thick) This bending force is what causes the pins to fail, not the actual shearing load. It fatigues from bending, then eventually fails. 1045 (75-80KSI yield strength) is a good material for pins. Go buy rod, cut to length, and weld on a cap. Cheaper than store bought too. This is what we use. Strong enough to handle the bending load, weldable/workable. They seem to hold up well. | ||
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