|
|
Waldron, MI | My winter project has been repainting our 4020. It's gotten more indepth than I intended when I started but it's going to turn out nice. I started out by sandblasting the entire tractor then had to do some body work on a few areas, mostly the fenders. Added some body filler and then sanded the sheet metal down with 220 grit sandpaper. I used John Deere Buff Primer Sealer for a primer on everything and then wet sanded the hood and side panels, basically anything I want to really shine, with 600 grit paper.
Next on to the first coat of John Deere green. I'm using John Deere Paint and the Valspar hardner they sell with John Deere thinner. My plan is to wet sand the green with 1000 grit and then give it a second coat of green, then a clear coat. This is the first major project I have done although I have done a fair amount to painting before just not trying to get the results I am this time. So I'm doing a lot of research along the way and trying to figure out how to go about the clear coat, and I am finding some conflicting advise. One place says to apply the clear coat right after the final coat of green while it's still wet and put about 3 - 5 coats of clear on 10 minutes apart. Another sourse says to let the color coat dry and then wet sand it and then put the clear on. What's your advice? What is the best way to finish this project? Do I add a hardner to the clear coat? After the clear coat I plan on wet sanding with 1500 and then 2000 grit paper and buffing the finish from there. Here's some pics of what I have so far.
 (4020 - 1.jpg)
 (4020 - 2.jpg)
 (4020 - 3.jpg)
 (4020 - 4.jpg)
 (4020 - 5.jpg)
 (4020 - 6.jpg)
 (4020 - 7.jpg)
Attachments
----------------
 4020 - 1.jpg (87KB - 830 downloads)
4020 - 2.jpg (93KB - 769 downloads)
4020 - 3.jpg (35KB - 796 downloads)
4020 - 4.jpg (43KB - 836 downloads)
4020 - 5.jpg (38KB - 795 downloads)
4020 - 6.jpg (81KB - 843 downloads)
4020 - 7.jpg (41KB - 765 downloads)
|
|
| |
|
| Clear has to be applied shortly after the color has been applied. It will not stick well if applied to long after. Also with base clear, you are wasting your time wet sanding the color before the clear. Wet sand and buff the clear and you will have a showcar shine.
I have watched our painter at the dealership do $20k show car paint jobs and all he wetsands and buffs is the clear. And I do mean a lot of buffing as he figures to buff off at least 2 coats of clear.
INDY |
|
| |
|
Alberta, Canada | That's a lot of work but it will be a good job when its done. Last tractor I tore apart and painted I wish I would have bought an automotive paint instead of the machnery paint from the CIH dealer. I didn't clear coat it though so maybe that would have held the shine better.
Edited by Larry in AB 2/4/2013 15:57
|
|
| |
|
| No, if your using factory enamel it must harden before you clear(Which is why you need to sand) or it will lift because of the chemical reaction......Think OE enamel needs 2 weeks to cure before clear..........BTDT and had a failure. |
|
| |
|
south Texas , York Rife Freemason | Use hardner in the green -A MUST .
Let the green dry a few days at 60 plus degrees ,Scuff the green with 5-600 grit paper then clear .
Dont waste your money on NO-NAME clear ,use PPG ,Dupont or a big name .
If you spray on the clear while the enamel is tacky IT WILL PEEL OFF eventually .
If you dont listen to anything else i say ,remember that part ,I have been painting almost 30 years . |
|
| |
|
SW Minnesota, Lyon County | So you can clear the "factory" paints then if you let them dry properly? I haven't done much for 2 stage paints. In fact the only one I did was some bumper work on my old Lincoln and used a base/clear combination. Friend of mine wants me to paint his tractors and I would be using IH paint. Thought it would be nice to clear it also. |
|
| |
|
south Texas , York Rife Freemason | m3farmer - 2/4/2013 17:08
So you can clear the "factory" paints then if you let them dry properly? I haven't done much for 2 stage paints. In fact the only one I did was some bumper work on my old Lincoln and used a base/clear combination. Friend of mine wants me to paint his tractors and I would be using IH paint. Thought it would be nice to clear it also.
Let them dry ,after using hardner scuff sand ,and you can clear them .
I would not be afrid to clear a factory painted new tractor if it was a few months old ,and it was scuffed up with fine sandpaper . |
|
| |
|
| I really like the JD buff primer on bare metal seems to adhere and last really well. Very neat idea on making your own down draft paint booth what did you use to exhaust the fumes ? Could maybe be an issue if your not using some sort of explosion proof motor on the fan. Also be sure to use a good respirator when spraying that hardener it's very hard on the lungs. Looks like a very good quality job you are doing hope you will post more pictures when you are all finished. |
|
| |
|
nc ks | So you let new paint dry before you clear coat, but you can't clear coat an old paint job to make it look better? I know nothing about clear coat, but want to learn. |
|
| |
|
Eastern Nebraska | Why not just use a base coat/ clear coat system? Use paints that are MEANT to be used together. Follow the instructions and you will be better off than just guessing. |
|
| |
|
south Texas , York Rife Freemason | You can clear anything that has dried properly ,Old implement paints would need to be 6 months old .
I dont use base clear because its too high ,you can use genuine deere paint for 40$ a gallon ,use hardner ,let it dry and sand then clear .
Deere green is hard to match . Have not tried it in imron . |
|
| |
|
| My dad never liked 2 stage for tractors because of the problems of getting even coverage in nooks and crannies..........So you had heavier coverage on the flatter areas, and lighter in the hard to get areas...............He prefered single stage, and cleared that..............Worked well, but also did some with OE paint, waited and then cleared it..........Same resaults and durability for alot less $$$.
In my attempts to self teach myself since he is gone, I tried the OE without the cure out putting clear on it...............Needless to say I had a nice mess on my hands. |
|
| |
|
Waldron, MI | Thanks the paint booth actually started as a sandblasting booth to contain the dust and sand. The fan is just a fan from an aeration tube we use in seed wagons. Didn't think about any explosion risk but it's been ok so far. Definitely need a good respirator. It's working really well to keep the overspray contained and the fumes out of the rest of the shop. |
|
| |
|
Waldron, MI | Thanks for the replies. I guess I'll let it dry for a few days and then put the clear on. I was hoping to be done before I go to Louisville but I don't think that's going to happen. |
|
| |
|
red river valley se of fargo | I would recommend sticking with the sanding between color coats, because when you buff any little fluff or dust that settles in the color coats will burn through the clear during buffing. |
|
| |
|
N IL | I would strongly urge you to not put clear over John Deere paint. Double or triple the hardener and you will have almost the same results.
Nobody understands that a base/clear paint job is a "system"..........Ie. all products have to come from the same manufacture because they are meant to "play" together and they must be put on in a very specific matter. Generally if you clear something then you do not use hardener since there is no need for it. Also, putting clear on dry, hard paint is just asking for trouble. Most manufactures recommend applying clear within 24 hours of applying the paint. It's not that the paint needs to be wet but it needs to be "open" to accept anything you spray on top of it. Fully cured paint with hardener dries to a hard a durable finish (as it's supposed to) and putting clear on top is just asking for trouble. It will last for a while but it will peel eventually. |
|
| |
|
SW WI | I don't know about using clear coat with John Deere factory paint. Our painter expert told us you can't use clear coat with acrylic enamel. He said they react and make a mess of the surface. I'm not saying it wont work, but this is what I was told by a guy I really trust on such matters. I would consult a body shop before moving forward.
We just got done doing this 4040 entirely in automotive style base/clear mixed to Deere specs. It was certainly more expensive, but so worth it. I probably had 100 hours of prep time in this one and our painter probably had 100 himself. With that kind of time invested, we weren't about to stop short on materials just to save a few bucks. Good luck with your project! It's always more work than you think it should be, but it's an awesome feeling when you're done!
 (DSC01307.jpg)
Attachments
----------------
DSC01307.jpg (64KB - 697 downloads)
|
|
| |
|
Wardview, LA | I heard the chrome exhaust will add 50hp to any tractor - lol
Looks great Yagerfarms.
Baker.. keep us posted with your pics as it appears to be coming along great. How did you prep all the parts?
Edited by warrior-p 2/6/2013 10:47
|
|
| |
|
SW WI | Thanks! Actually, the chrome pipe did add about 40 hp to the tractor. If you look close, you can see the oil line running up to the turbo. |
|
| |
Painting/Clear coating a tractor
