|
|
| I replaced the entire set of cables for my 4020, took the floor plate off and everything. To begin with there were four sets of cables, now now only three makes sense. Positive to starter, negative to positive on the other battery, then negative to ground. Where was the fourth supposed to go? Was there a ground or some special meeting place under the floor where the extra cable met in between the two batteries or should I just use three, since it appears to work, and put the floor back in place.
This tractor sat for TEN years before I got it going so it's kind of screwy but it runs good, I'm just trying to get it set up so it doesn't burn to the ground before I have some one come to look into restoring it for me. Several bolts underneath the floor are broke off as you might imagine, so I have to figure out how to get them out.
This is a lot to ask, but does anyone have a pic of their 12 volt 4020 with the floor off?
Thanks in advance!
Edited by kwc27 10/16/2011 09:05
|
|
| |
|
SE MN & NE IA | Is it set up as a 12 or 24 volt system? Many were converted to a 12 volt many ears ago, but some were not. Knowing that bit of info would help me tell you what wire goes where. |
|
| |
|
Lenawee Co Michigan | I'm pretty sure kwc27's 4020 is a 12 volt.
It's in the subject line: "12 Volt JD 4020 Battery Cable Hook-up"
Edited by PaKettle 10/16/2011 09:40
|
|
| |
|
| If it is 12volt, why is one wire going from the negative of one battery to the positive of the other battery? That would only work if both batteries were 6VDC. |
|
| |
|
| Not sure if you are wanting 12V, or 24V. What you stated in hooking pos. of one battery to neg. on the other will get you 24V, but your other dialog indicates that you are wanting to hook up as a 12V system.
The original 24V system had pos. of one battery to starter solenoid, neg. of the other battery to the field terminal on the 24V starter, and a cross-over cable from neg. of one battery to pos. on the other. Also, it had a small ga. (fuse wire) for chassis ground.
If you can clarify which voltage you want to hook up, someone can tell you how to make the connections. Good luck. |
|
| |
|
| Ooooh. I never farmed with dad and he died three years ago, tough call because I never drove the tractor until now. I am almost fairly certain it was 24 converted to 12 though, but I will call dad's friend that did it for him. Funny bc the way I have it hooked up now makes it run fine. That's what scares me. |
|
| |
|
Faunsdale, AL | Some of the old 24 volt tractors had two short cables to the frame. These were usually under bolts holding the transmission cover on, so 4 cables and 2 twelve volt batteries.
Newer 12 volt models came with 6 volt batteries, and a single crossover cable from left battery negative to right battery positive. 3 cables on those.
If you have 2 twelve volt batteries, you will need 4 cables.
One from each battery positive post to the starter solenoid or alternatively one from right battery positive to left battery positive and then on to the starter solenoid. You can use a longer bolt in the clamp end of the left battery positive cable and a couple washers to join the cable from the right battery positive onto it. Sometimes it's hard to get two cable ends on the starter solenoid stud even if the cables are both long enough to reach it. Not a lot of room under the intake manifold and sometimes the stud is not quite long enough to get everything on.
On the negative posts, you can use short cables to the bolts holding the transmission cover down (that's the way I would do it) Just make sure there's enough slack to tip the batteries out and get the cable on and off.
I like the 2 12volt battery setups better than the 2 six volt battery version. Just need to make sure when you are at Deere parts counter you know that you need 12 volt batteries instead of the 6's they'll sell you if you ask for batteries for a 12 volt tractor. |
|
| |
|
SW Ohio | Some thing to look for to help ID, does it have a generator or alternator, does it have a boxy looking voltage regulator, is the starter marked 12V or 24V, what year is it(dash hyd or fender? |
|
| |
|
| Does the starter have two large insulated terminals? its 24 volts.
Same for the generator.
The wiring description sounds like its 24 volts with the batteries in series. Needs a ground wire from the jumper between batteries to balance the voltages on the lights or they won't last long. Neither will the fuel gauge.
Gerald J. |
|
| |
|
Southwestern Ohio | He could have 2 six volt batteries wired in a series to make his 12 volt.
Larry
Edited by larryshoat 10/16/2011 14:48
|
|
| |
|
ECMN | Gerald J. - 10/16/2011 10:39
Does the starter have two large insulated terminals? its 24 volts.
Same for the generator.
The wiring description sounds like its 24 volts with the batteries in series. Needs a ground wire from the jumper between batteries to balance the voltages on the lights or they won't last long. Neither will the fuel gauge.
Gerald J.
"balance the voltage" may not be the best phrase here. What Gerald is saying is on a 24V setup that wire is a ground to the chassis to run lights and instruments etc. with only 12 volts off one 12V battery with the positive cable [feeding the positive side of the accessories by connections in wiring harness to the fuse panel, switches etc. to make the 12v circuits] < for clarification everything in brackets has nothing to do with the "battery cables" myfarm had a better description of this. I guess I want to make sure you know that the lights etc. need 12VOLTS. (all I probably did was stir the mud! lol) |
|
| |
|
NW Ohio,near Findlay | If yo're not sure, better get some on site help. If it's a 12V, should be easy to figure out on starter and alt. Sparks will fly if your wrong. Be careful. |
|
| |
|
| There are two sets of 12 volt loads, one positive and one negative. Mostly lights. They need the center battery ground to guarantee equal voltages if they aren't exactly matched in load current.
Gerald J. |
|
| |
12 Volt JD 4020 Battery Cable Hook-up
