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Ohio | looking at an eagle 8500 sprayer. Anybody have any experience with them? What are any weak points, if any to look at? How do you know if the wheel motors are good/functioning properly? Thanks for any comments. |
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| They are a decent sprayer, I would look at the chain that is used to raise and lower the center section as they have been known to fail, the break away latch assembly is notorious for failing, and you will want to make sure that they hydros have been synced and the servo's on the hydros are set properly. The wheel motors were pretty solid, I have heard of a few that have failed but normally any failure happened in the power hub (the input shaft would break, this is the designed weak point of the drive). You can check the wheel motors by looking at case drain on them, there is a hose that is coming out of the side of the wheel motor that is one size smaller than the two drive lines, this is your case drain line. If you put a flow meter in this you should see very little flow coming out of the motor sitting idle with engine rpm's (1 gal. or less). The wheel motors are rated at the high end of the power rating that the drive hubs will handle, so normally if there was a failure it was in the hub. Nice riding machine, cab is a little small. Good luck!! |
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Ohio | how do you know if a drive shaft in the hub is broken? is this readily apparent or would the wheel just not spin? what do you mean by syncing? and how would one go about checking that out? thanks |
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| You will know if it is broken by trying to climb a hill it will feel like it powers out because the wheel with the broken shaft will get all the oil. It his the easiest to spin and the wheels that are functoning will get a reduced supply. Once you know how it feels it is easy to know when one breaks. faily inexpensive fix if you catch it in time. |
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| You will notice a sluggish unit when driving if an input shaft is broken, take the unit for a drive down the road, if you have a broken input shaft that wheel motor will be noticably warmer, only other way is to pull the hub apart and inspect them. Worst case with a broken input shaft is in the field, the machine will barely pull itself in good going. Broken input shafts normally happened to guys that would slow down for a wash out and go full stroke with the hydro handle when they hit it causing a failure, this input shaft is designed to do this as it is inexpensive to replace. To sync the hydro's, you will need to put guages on both hydros in place of the forward cross over line (3/8" line on the right side of hydro's about 2 foot long), with this line off and a guage on each hydro when they hydros are stroked both guages should come on line at the same time, to adjust you will want to adjust the linkage on the rear hydro as the front has the neutral start switch on it. With both hydros synced, this means that they will likely produce equal flow at the same time rather than fight one another. Some guys also turned up the pumps a little on the engine and advanced the timing on the pumps, if this has been done the input shafts are more prone to breaking if you get too agressive with the hydro handle in wash outs. I always had the best luck just letting the unit go through the wash out and then accelerate after. Hope this helps, these were good units and I still know of a fair amount of them working well for farmers and co-ops. |
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willmar eagle
