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West Central Iowa | Running with the manual by-pass valve open all the time can rob oil from the lube circuit and result in shortened clutch life, but I have never seen one fail in that few of hours.
Here is a copy and paste from an earlier post I made about a perma-clutch issue. Here is a link to that thread.
https://talk.newagtalk.com/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=210088&posts=9...
The perma clutch is designed so that when disks wear to a certain point, operating levers ( fingers) bottom on clutch cover causing severe slippage. Early 30 series did not have enough travel in fingers before the levers bottomed on the cover, causing clutch slippage before disks were worn very much at all. Deere has a service bulletin on this from back in the mid 70's. To check for this, when clutch adjusting tool is set up on clutch, with adjusting nuts backed way off you need at least .200 lever travel before they bottom out on the cover. I always use a 1/4" bolt between tip of lever and adjusting tool ring to check for clearance. If not enough clearance, grind top of cover where finger is contacting it with a die grinder until you have enough off so bolt will go in. We check this on every clutch we do as it only takes a minute to do.
Also, if this is an early tractor with manual by-pass valve, and the valve is left open, it will rob the lube oil circuit and shorten clutch life.
And another post I made in the same thread.
Early S/N (prior to S/N 44904 for 4430) 30 series QR & SR tractors had a manual by-pass valve that could be opened to allow a single acting cylinder down. By opening this valve return oil was dumped back to sump instead of staying in the charge circuit. Later S/N tractors used a directional control valve built into the RH SCV/rockshaft valve sandwich plate that automatically returned the oil to sump when using a single acting cylinder and no longer had this manual by-pass valve. The manual by-pass valve was most commonly used for wagon hoist cylinder and corn planters (in this area) as they did not have enough weight to over come system charge pressure to allow the oil to return to the sump.
This valve sits in the valve body directly behind the hyd oil filter. It screws in from the bottom and can be identified by a long hex cap sticking down. If you remove the hex cap there is a large screw driver slot in the valve stem. It should be screw in (up) until it is seated. The owners manual should have some info on this if you have an early owners manual. I have been advising my customers for years to just leave it closed and if they have a wagon or something that only sees occasional use to just shut the tractor off to leave it down. JD did offer a kit years ago to upgrade the early tractor to the late design.
And another thread with some info in it that may help.
https://talk.newagtalk.com/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=827005&posts=3...
edit for spelling
Edited by pirlbeck 9/13/2020 10:42
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JD 4430 burning up clutches
