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Aberdeen MS | I have a set up on mine.
Local welding shop took a piece of 8" C iron and laid another 1" plate into the channel. Due to the air ride height controls, stabalizer arm on the back rear, etc, we mounted/welded it in place at the way back of the frame. We measured the height of the pickup ball and with the bags full duplicated that height within the frame rails and stitched it tight to the frame. We then took a couple of pieces of 1/2 inch and put a support in inbetween the lower frame web and C iron.
I would recommend investing in a 30,000 pound ball should one ever get into a situation that you will be using more of the HP than the trailer is actually made for. IMO, a 10 or 12K ball is just asking for a problem.
I put a timer brake controller in the Pete and just went straight to the brake light switch on the floor. I keep the sensitivity to lowest setting, basically just so it's there if needed and for all to be legal.
My trailer is a small 6 pin electrical hook up and I tapped into the rear tractor light wiring harness, the brake/signal lights on mine are together like older cars and PU. When I pull a trailer with the 7 pin, I have another adaptor that is mounted alongside for that.
In this configuration, the ball is way below the king pin of a regular trailer and I don't have to be worried about catching the ball when hooking up regular.
One thing I will mention in addition, I have a 26 foot gooseneck flat bed with 2 12K axles under it. I had a fully loaded big square bale load of straw on, 3 X 3 X 8, 30 bales total. Deck was full from front to back. We split weighed the load just to see how much weight was where. With that load, I had right at 2,000 pounds on the goose neck hitch itself, 17,000 net, trailer tare of about 7200 (if I remember correctly). It is more of the "pull" one needs to be concerned with if the trailer is loaded correctly than setting up for the hitch to "carry" the weight.
My experiences and opinion for whatever it's worth. | |
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Gooseneck Trailer, Behind a semi
