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NW Ohio,near Findlay | We had a 310D at work, a little different problem than yours. Ours stripped the splines off in the coupler and we couldn't get it to move forward to the pump, but would move a little to the rear. May be the problem with yours, the splines are worn enough in the coupler and won't slid forward. I sure hope this isn't your problem, but maybe should really inspect that coupler even if you get it to move to change the belt. Ours had signs of rust coming out of front of the coupler. It was slowly wearing the splines out, of course we didn't know this. The splines are softer in the coupler than the pump we found out, will explain more later.
Ours failed in the middle of a outer belt freeway replacing a crushed 8 inch sewer, bucket in the hole, loader down, worst possible place. Bucket in hole was the big problem, would have to take lines loose to raise hoe up, so had city put up barricades, rerouted traffic for the day. Did call dealer Buck and Knobby, they had one and quickly advised us what to do and the fastest. Having the part in stock, oh yes, we weren't the only one. Sent a boy to get parts, new coupler,new nylon bushing at rear, new rubber wear bushings on suction line, and went to shop to get tools. Did not like to hear what dealer had to say as to fixing it. First raise and block loader to remove front weights, not possible. Had to work under loader frame, removed weights, dropped them on floor jack, in street, not fun. Loosen pump and slid forward enough to get coupler off pump. Pump has hard suction pipe on left side, 90 degree angle, dealer warned us not to pull off, loosen holding brackets to slid suction line forward with pump. Found a worn spot on line rubbing against frame, could of been a really big problem if not found. Finally got it forward enough to get that stupid , cheap coupler off. Shaft on pump is worn, but at least for now will run. Called dealer again as to what to do with worn pump shaft, advised us what a new pump would cost, didn't have one anyway. Can't remember what, but service manager said drill and tap threads in new coupler, right on top of pump shaft, end of coupler. and install a grease zerk. They have seen this before, the flex joint, at the crank end does not flex enough, rubber bushings, what ever it is. You pulled them apart to get belt off. Now, with the pump shaft worn with new coupler, it is going to flex, slid there easy, so install a grease zerk. We got the coupler, installed grease zerk, new rubbler, nylon bushing at rear, and got that darn thing running, and out to street near midnight. Finished that project, yes with the 310 next day.
They run that tractor years after that, still have it and never caused anymore problem. Once a year, have to pull either side shield off or front grille out and with a long hose, grease that zerk. Until a retired, every year we thought about pulling it apart and replacing pump with new shaft, but never did. They don't use it much now, but still going. We also had a 210C, set up the same. We slid the pump foward and installed a zerk on it too, but much easier to work on. Post back on what you did to fix it.
Edited by dondozer 2/26/2019 10:06
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Spline for hydraulic pump on a john deere backhoe
