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| All replies are good, especially JD7520 and BHTN replies.
9400 w/ 6 row, say like 175-200 bu corn, roughly should be able to handle 4-6 mph, more or less per conditions, have you tried going faster, to get a more even feed ?
Are there certain variety's giving you more of a fit than others. ?
Corn that dry normally can / will butt shell a little more so than tougher corn, thats why I asked if going a little faster would help.
On your rolls, you want a fairly straight edge, it will be tapered if std rolls, but if you place a straight edge along it, there should be very slight dips or
wearing in, but say like 1/8-1/4" or more then replace. IF you see this, look at the edges and see if the hard surface on the edge is worn into the casting.
Wear plates, same way you want a straight edge, front to back, then also not rounded over, you want a square edge as much as possible.
When setting, you want them about 1/8 wider at the back and narrower at the front. Search on here for wear plate settings, I might have a pic of my tool and Von has made a set along with many others, that will speed this setting up considerably. You do NOT set them like a wedge !!!, meaning wide at front and narrow to the rear !!!!!!
I change mine yearly if necessary but in late August, I will scout my fields for the largest stalk ( dia ) and use that as a guide, and start out setting the wearplates about 1/8" or a little more than the stalk diameter. Then I'll tweak it from there once I start running.
90% of the time "here" though if I go with 1 1/8 up front and 1 1/4 at the rear, catches me for "most" conditions. Many times a tighter wear plate clearance will slow you down, but too wide will give you butt shelling.
Gathering chains.. You have a choice, you can run them with the teeth opposed from each other ( usually I do this for small ears ), or staggered. It usually is a operator preference, and sometimes a field condition thing, FWIW, 90% I run them staggered, and set my customers that way too with good results.
Make your tension is correct, when set properly there should be about 1/8"-3/16 gap from the bottom edge of washer of the adjusting bolt, to the spacer pipe. pull on the chains to be sure there is not binding of the idler slides and sticking under the guide channel. Then set you chain guides to wear there is 1/16 - 1/8 clearance after chain tension.
How is your auger trough ? any leaks here ?
Is the header set in underdrive, direct drive, or overdrive ? this depends on how the sprockets are. For slowest, you want the small on the driver ( rear ) and large on the front, direct will have both small on one side and both large on the other, then overdrive will have large on rear and small on front.
FWIW, I normally set most heads up in overdrive or direct, this allows to run a slower FH speed and keep the FH ( feeder house ) running belt cooler.
Wedge kits can and will really help, especially in dry fluffy stuff that does not want to feed in and bunch up in the center.
Also check the feederhouse to header connection for leaks, meaning are there any gaps at the bottom ?
May I ask how many kernals you are finding per sq ft ? e mail is good if you wish not to divulge over internet, but your op manual will let you know how many bu / acre loss is.
Auger, I been installing a fair amount of slow down sprockets on my customers that like to roll, and having good luck with it too as we do not get as many ears thrown out the front, and I take the rubber paddles OFF, unless I have a variety that fights me ( fluff ) and does not want to feed in.
I am a fan of the ear saver screen, this is basically wire fence rolled into a concave and mounts in front of the feeder house.
Sorry to be long winded, but just trying to help,
Good luck !
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Tips to get a 643 head to do better
