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| Remove front split collars, raise planter full up. crack bleeders at longest distance from master cylinder 1st, then work your way inward. Depending on how much air was introduced into system, may have to repeat a few more times.
BE AWARE of where you are standing, so you are clear of moving parts / wheels as planter is lowered.
I treat the bleeders like brake bleeders on a vehicle, get a deep ( 3/8 or 7/16 ? ) 6 point socket to fit over the bleeder and just try and barely tighten 1st to see if it will break loose.
If the bleeders are seized, just BE SURE TO RELIEVE PRESSURE of hydraulic system BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO APPLY HEAT !!!!!, so, best to remove the supply line, and drain the cylinders of oil.
Once they are loose, then proceed to bleed. I use a piece of clear tubing that fits snugly over the bleeder and then drop that tube ( I think mine is like 18" long ) into a can or bucket.
I actually like to go as far as remove each one and either replace if rusty ( they dont cost that much ) and apply nevr sieze to the threads.
Now use a wrench and bleed the system, you will easily see the bubbles and foam, and bleed till gone.
Another thing I check...lube the wheel lift arms pivots and the lift cylinder pivot pins, sometimes when those get dry / rusty, especially when planter has set for a while, you can get enough friction / binding that the planter can struggle lowering correctly, thus making bleeding more difficult.
After thorough bleeding, I'll raise and lower planter say like 15-20 times, checking for levelness and on the larger planters like a 12 or 16 row, sometimes will bleed another time if there is some sagging. If the sagging continues and does not want to work itself out, then a lot of times you have an internal leak in the system.
If the wings still want to sag, or more so if one wing more than another, if it is a flex or front fold planter, check the routing of hoses at the folding frame pivots, I have seen some get pulled so tight that the hoses were pinched, resulting in poor flow. This problem can be sometimes be identified 2 ways, wings going up slow and dropping slow.
Also I have better luck when bleeding with warm oil versus cold oil, so let the tractor warm up and running a jumper hose in a SCV will help bring the temp up quicker.
More thoughts come to me as I type...the master cylinder will have screens for the hose ports, make sure they are clean of debris before you start, especially if the master has been rebuilt, and also is a easy check if having raise / lowering issues.
Make sure to reinstall the collars back on the master cylinder.
Just some ideas.
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Master cylinder 7000,7200 correct procedure I rephasing
