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Montana | I ran a 1425 self propelled baler and after about three years, 60 thousand bales they replaced the knotter stack at huge cost to me. I know the book used to have good pictures and sometimes it was needle timing and sometimes it was the twins clamps if the bill hooks were new. We had a 285 with the German steel knotter and there was a little roller that had to be lubed and kept rolling or it got a flat spot. The 285 was the best of the balers i ever used. There is also wedges you can bolt in the bale chamber to slow down hay on one side or the other and sometimes bale shape and tension will affect knots. We had a great old baler mechanic and if he said it needed a new knotter stack he was right, I think the now knotter for my 1425 was 12 hundred dollars but once installed it baled like crazy until I traded it off on a round baler. I started with a new holland 77 pulled by a john Deere A in about 1962 and ran a lot of square balers and I know that twine clamps have to hold just right and knives to cut twins need to be very sharp and bill hooks need not to be worn and needles must be properly timed. I hope you get it going, Nothing more frustrating than broken bales.
My father in law had the mechanic put all new bearings on the plunger every year, sharpen the knives very sharp and set the knotter just right and I would make 10 thousand bales an not miss a knot. | |
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NH 273 Continued knotter trouble
