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North Carolina | You get what you pay for with drills have used the hay busters not impressed with them Don't buy a drill that depends on the weight of the drill on the seed openers to do the notill work of cutting through the residue these have limited depth control adjustments because of this and wear opener disks really fast A drill with a coulter cart in front of it will way extend the life of the drill itself. Great Plains and case ih are really good setup when it comes to this and have good all around seed metering system Look at GP cph 1200 or 1500 can't remember cih numbers but both have coulter carts with hydraulic depth control End wheel drills are decent but why have one that is 12 seeding width and 14 feet transport width not to mention the wheel overlap during actual seeding the Great Plains that I've got really works well it is 12 feet will drill in any condition from cornstalk residue to conventional tillage If I had it to do over again I would get it with the fertilizer box on it too I notill every thing from alfalfa to soybeans and can plant corn on any row spacing even twin row all have to do is put row plugs in seed hopper but don't reccomend planting corn because of so many row units being pulled thru feild doing nothing and still wearing The coulter cart I front of the drill does the heavy work in notill situations putting less work on the drill itself and you can also remove the drill from cart and use it as a three point unit in conventional tillage Also the Great Plains has a pivot system that keeps seeder units int furrow that the coulter cart openers have made when going through curves or around corners of feild Where I live we farm on pretty steep slopes and small Feilds the pivot of the Great Plains is very nice because we have to do alot contour seeding The John deeres are good drills but I have problems with in a contour situation they are better suited for straight line level seeding I think the landoll drill is the same unit as GP but never seen one with cph coulter cart | |
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