Unbolt the knotter, roll it up so you can see the bill hook and trigger. There is a roll pin thru the bill hook and trigger.  If it ties then doesn't  tie, get a new roll pin drive out the old one. From the description,, tie's no tie,, chances are that little roll pin is broke. Check the trigger for nicks excessive slop/overworn hole where the roll pin goes thru, and the roller. May have to replace the trigger.

If the twine is hanging on the bill hook, take your bfh or big crescent wrench and *adjust* the knife arm so it just "ticks" the bill hook as it passes across the billhook. While there make sure the actual knife is sharp enough to shave with, if not take the knife out and sharpen it till there is a *razor* edge on it.

If it ties on just one end check your twine disk holder, adjust the springs so the twine can't be pulled out of the twine disk. Check the timing on the twine disk holders they should look the same-have the same gap for the twine to lay in. If not advance/retard the *offending* twine disk.

Do Not overtighten the bill hook cam. The cam just needs to be tight enough for the bill hook to open at the right time,, overtightening will cause problems/break sh-t.

New Holland, J.D. Freeman, *you name it* balers are very similar,, there's only a couple of different styles of knotter's regardless of the color of the paint.

Check the twine tension (should be very close to/on top of the twine box, actually take the spring loose and see if there's grooves in the holders, if so just weld in the grooves and grind, then file them smooth as a baby's rear. The twine tension needs to be enough to prevent "whipping" the twine which can cause missed ties/loops,etc.. but not so tight the needles have to *fight* the twine tension when pulling the string thru to finish/make a new bale.

Another thing to look at,, the needles, see if there's a big groove where the twine is pulled through the needles,(trip the knotter and roll thru till needles hit top of their stroke to see the best) those too can be welded up and ground down smooth. (At least to get through the season, take a die grinder and small bit and grind off the sharp edges along the groove. Of course check all the twine guides between the twine box and knotters for sharp edges.

While rolling the knotter's thru the tie process check the needles as they pass thru the knotter assembly, they should JUST miss, or ever so slightly touch the knotter frame at the bill hook, knife arm,etc. as the needles pass thru.

Check both the hay dogs and hay dog springs, if the dogs are excessively worn they wont hold the hay in compression, if the haydog springs are broke/weak,, they won't hold the hay dogs in the chamber. During the tie process the hay will pull the string out of the knot.

Last thought is check the sloppyness of the knotter stack. If the knotter's won't stay up when you rotate the knotter up out of the working position, take a big wrench and tighten up the big nut on the right side of the knotter stack, till the knotter will just stay up when lifted up.

(I'm assuming all the standard stuff like proper hay placement in the chamber, etc.. is where it should be, not more hay on one side of the bale or the other. Plunger knives are razer sharp, adjusted within tolerances, etc..)

If that doesn't cure the problem, post back.

It's frustrating when something so simple doesn't work as it should.