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| These are routine things I been doing to them or look at or replace with this amount of hours: not just 8100' the whole 8000 - 8010's
Exhaust manifold bolts
check the 3 point to be sure it goes up / down, see if it has been grease at all zerks, also try the switch on the fender
mfwd seals,
water pump
fan drive brgs / belt
battery cables and batteries
rear belt for A/C compressor, check the compressor and lines for leaks / oil film, check the tensioner
steering cylinders and lines for leaks, check the pivot pins
front crank damper
visc fan drive and tensioner
usually run valve clearances, usually have to replace rocker cover due to leaks,
depends on how it runs and its care, but many I'll have injection system checked, cleaned tuned up
usually check the turbo
cab headliner,
if possible, see if they will let you drain a little oil out of mfwd hubs and see what the gear lube looks like,
If you have a tech available, you could install the diagnostic fuse in and see if it has any codes....
take a jumper hose along and you can check each scv, if you have a 3000 psi ga, you could check scv psi, if you have that tech he can test at the DR's too
check tilt steering to see if the lock works to keep it up
check all exhaust piping , especially the elbows
pull the engine and cab filters
drain a little coolant from block or radiator to check its condition, check to see if hoses are getting hard or checked or cracked from heat
check block heater cord, if possible plug it in , listen to it if quiet enough to see if element is working
check front rim to dish bolts that any of the holes are not oblong from being loose
check drawbar for excess pin hole / top of bar wear
overall check of harness' and connectors for brittleness
check to see when filters have been changed, you'll have to crawl under to see for hyd and trans
check the rear inside cab filters
check the blowby, check engine oil / filters, if you can drain a little engine oil before starting, you might be able to tell if coolant is getting in the oil and how it starts when cold too.
drive it cold and warm to see if you see much difference in shifting, usually they will be more aggressive when cold, good time to check brakes and see if the engine pulls down some when you tap the pedals when in gear,
Here's one I run into every once in a while, check the rear serial number to see if it matched the model decal, dont laugh too hard, I have seen a couple pieced together 8000's so far ( they were not pretty on the outside either :-) )
I would run the serial number though, you can get some early history from Deere on it.
Check the quick hitch saddle hooks for excessive wear
These are all things I listed as they came to mind, I know there are some I missed and some overdone, but I have my own little checklist I go by when working on them, dont panic that ALL this stuff is faulty either, its just some common stuff I been seeing, a lot of the ones my customers have been buying have been real close to this hour range or more and if the tractor looks average t good condition, I would say on average spend another 3-5K, , to really make them decent looking and dependable for many years, some have come from "jockeys" and just needed some love.
I also realize certain conditons wont let you check all the above either, just tryin to give a heads up.
Around here they been really good tractors in reliability, performance and resale. I personally would like to replace my 4440 with a 8100.....someday.....did you hear that Santa ????? :-)
Good Luck
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What to look for on a JD 8100?
