 Marshal County, Minnesota | Jd7730 - 7/17/2013 22:05
Before you go to the field, make sure the reel is pulled back all the way in the fore/aft cylinders and I'd put bolts through the arms so it can't slide ahead if your combine is not set up for the hydraulics...they can seep and then one side will move ahead. Then, with the reel back and all the way down, lower the head down onto a 6x6 wood block under the middle of the head...there should be about 1.5" between the sickle and the reel teeth when the cutter bar is flexed all the way up...if it's less, you might cut off the reel fingers and if more you will not be able to sweep in beans as well. Also, rotate the auger so that a retractable finger is right over one of the round bolt heads in the middle of the floor...there should be 5/8" or so clearance...you adjust this on the end of the auger with the 3 nuts and slotted holes...these are good to check every year to make sure they're tight too, if they come loose and the adjustment changes you break all the fingers when they hit the floor.
Personally, I wouldn't worry too much about the fore/aft reel feature. I'd run it a year to see if you really think you need it before adding the hydraulic circuit to your combine. We've had it bolted solid for several years. I can't say I've really missed it. I guess I can't say I've cut many badly leaning beans lately either, but if you do use it be careful not to drop into the ground when you're combining!
Thanks for the advice, I wasn't too worried about rigging in the hydraulics for the fore/aft. On the 220F I had before, once i got the fore/aft of the reel set where I wanted it, I never moved it again. That might be the case here as well. Did you unbolt the cylinders from the rail when you moved the reel around? |