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New London, Wisconsin | I did this two years ago with an 8-36 front fold JD7200 planter I bought just for this conversion. I did have a few head scratching moments, but most of it is a straight forward parts changing swap. My hitch is the long one, you'll want that, and it does still give some negative hitch weight when the planter is raised or lowered. That has not been a problem, but do use a pin you can't possibly lose while planting. The transmission I had originally hoped to move to the front, but decided to just live with it where it was. All my row units are on the back of the main frame. On my two center rows, I cheated and they are about 21.5 inch spacing to accommodate the transmission width. Starfire brings up a good point about the forward position of the wheels being able to "overcenter" What he means is if you have it raised and stub a wheel on a stone or other obstacle it can hyper extend and go right under the center of the planter frame and not come back on it's own. This is not as bad as it sounds. Nothing breaks, but the planter won't go back down until you back up and those wheels go back where they belong. I've played with the position holes on the cylinders but may still need a stop of some sort. A flexible 1/4" cable of the correct length may be just the ticket. I have been pleased with it so far. As with anything getting this much modification, you are going to run into a few snags. Overall I'd do it again. It was a lot more work than I first thought, but still worth it. One final note is that I presume you will recondition your row units before you put them at 20 inches. It's just a lot easier that way. I had some pictures, but I think they are in a phone that went to the bottom of a lake. Good luck and let me know if you have more questions. | |
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Building a 20" planter from a JD 7000
