Hamilton, OH/ Browning, MO | 3 years ago I did exactly what you're talking about doing. I decided to switch to 20's and had just bought a 7000 12-30 front fold w/ liquid. I had built a couple splitter bean planters over the last few years so I had plenty of extra row units and framework. We put 18 row units on to stay at the 30' width. When it came to the middle section, I added another 7x7 toolbar to attach the units to. I U-bolted 4- 5x7 pieces that was 42"long. This was the only way to get those center rows back away from the 4 lift wheels. Also I moved the wheels so they were the right distance apart. One the wings I moved the lift wheel out to the end of the toolbar, similiar to Kinzie planters. I think I had to add 21" to the end of each bar for the wheel bracket, and markers to fit. I'm not sure if this makes sense or not. I regret not taking any pictures as we were building it, but I could get some now if it would help. So I have don't have all of the rows in a single line. The middle 8 are set back 42" from each wing. We were planing on building another one this winter for beans, but it didn't happen, but I'd change a few things. The 7000 frame isn't heavy enough for one. It works just fine, but I'm carefull of bumps when on the road to keep from things bouncing. Also, I changed the drive over to the Jamison top drive also. I'd do that regardless of making it 20" or not. I wouldn't go with the wheels out front and the units behind because of the negative toungue weight. BTDT. My email is good if I can help you on how else I did mine. |
Building a 20" planter from a JD 7000
