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| The early 4020 diesels came out of the factory with a goofy 24 volt positive ground system. It can be hard for the average person to work on. Some have been converted to 12 volt negative ground that is a lot simpler and easier to diagnose electrical problems on. If you get an early 4020 the selective control valves (hydraulic valves under the hood in front of the dash) are no longer available through Deere and good luck getting one that doesn't have an internal crack in the housing. So if you find one with one outlet think about this before you want to add a second valve. I have seen a lot of people add a spool valve on the fender and tap into the hydraulics. The gas tractors can get really thirsty when worked hard. When they are let idled too long they can be prone to fouling spark plugs. Electronic ignition and hotter plugs can help with the fouling though. On a synchro transmission make for sure the shifter isn't worn out and that it wants to stay in gear. If it wants to pop out (especially 5th to reverse) then the top shaft in the transmission could have the bearings going out. On a powershift make for sure it doesn't slip when shifting into any of the gears and keep the hydraulic oil clean and replace the filter as the operators manual recomends. If the steering valve under the dash needs rebuilt you better have someone who has experience do it as it can be complicated. I personally would prefer a diesel over a gas but that is my opinion. Just don't get caught up in wanting a 4020. I have seen a lot of people go and buy one that is worn out and a piece of junk just because they wanted one. Also, if you push in on the clutch pedal (especially when starting) it shuts off the hydraulic flow because you are not turning the transmission pump. The 30 series Deere's were the first to have true live hydraulics. All that being said a 4020 is a good tractor that can be a joy to run if it's not worn out. They can be very reliable and give a lot of hours of good service. | |
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4020 John Deere info wanted
