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Juneau, WI | I'm the one running the machine this forum was started on. I also did 2/3 of the set up and fabricating. I’m slowly starting to take over as my dad expands his farm drainage/excavation business.
We are running a true 4 inches deep applying 100 pounds of potash and 70 pounds of DAP an acre. I had intended to run 6 inches deep, but the power requirements are greater and lets face it, this is deeper than the majority of people actually achieve and many claim 2*2 is the best, which is 4 inches deep. I’m not entirely sure what the best depth is just yet. At 4 inches I can go between 5 and 5.5 mph with 17,000 pounds of fertilizer and once I'm down to 10,000 pounds I can go 5.5 to 6 mph. I think we will end up swapping this tractor to the planter and chip up our 305 magnum for spring when we switch to the plaribus units. As long as we can go 6 to 7 mph I believe things should work well.
In spring we plan on using a blend of 50 pounds of 12-40-0-10S-1Z, 50 pounds of AMS, and 75 to 100 pounds of Urea per acre with the plaribus units. We are a little concerned about seed burn, but need to have enough out there to make it to side dress.
We will be side dressing with our Haggie 12 row sprayer attachment using 28 percent to bring our total spring/summer applied N up to about 175 units when following corn or wheat and 150 units following soybeans. We are also looking into adding some ammonium thiosulfate at side dress as well as some boron. I would like to ditch the yetter coulters and find something that doesn’t brake at 10 mph, is better at incorporating the fertilizer, and yet is still able to swivel with a depth gauge narrow enough to keep between the rows. Maybe that’s too much to ask for. Any suggestions?
We do not intend to have any fertilizer on our planter nor do we plan on spraying any pre or post plant 28 percent.
The power unit is rated at 70 hp from 1800 to 2200 rpm, but I estimate its using 40hp at 1300 rpm where we are running it at, which is also the engines peak torque of 295. We are running the minimum pressure recommended on the blower gauge, but according to my hydrolic pressure gauge I'm building 3,000 psi which is the max my pump is rated for with a 3/4 inch line out and back. Could run it faster but I don’t want to wreck the pump. I now have the relief set at 3,000 psi, so anything higher will only waste fuel and the engine actually labors more with rpm even though it’s bypassing oil. I don't feel I'm over working the power unit, but I wouldn't run a pump any bigger than the one I'm using nor use a power unit less than 50 hp running in its peak. Pump sizing is very critical if you go this route. I would also use a larger fan motor if I started all over and size accordingly. This would keep your pressure down. Also a clutch is necessary. At less than 900 rpm the pump will kill the engine.
I believe diffusers are total necessary on this set up. According to Rogger Montag the fertilizer must maintain 82 mph to stay in suspension. He also figured out that the restriction of the tips would increase the tip speed to 140 mph. I don't believe much fertilizer could stay in the trench at that speed.
My biggest concerns are burning the seed, not having enough N to make it to side dressing, and needing a bigger horse in the spring. Should I be worried?
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Banding Fall Dry Fertilizer ahead of Spring Strip Till (pics)
