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AgLeader SC110 auxiliary engage switch
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tedbear
Posted 1/10/2026 06:55 (#11503987 - in reply to #11503855)
Subject: RE: AgLeader SC110 auxiliary engage switch


Near Intersection of I-35 & I-90 Southern Mn.
Since you are using an L2, I might not be much help since I have no experience with them. My experience with using a "Remote" Master has been with the older L1 (Original Liquid Product Control Module) and other modules prior to the introduction of the L2. Many of those modules had an implement switch port that would either need to be used or jumpered.

I believe your new switch wiring and configuration setup may be correct but there may be some other condition which is causing your confusion. Remember that the switches in your system are inputs or indicators of your intentions to the system. The switches do NOT directly control ON/OFF valves, section valves etc. Other conditions such as zero target rate, area already applied, section switches all OFF, implement switch status etc. can enter into the decision of whether the system applies or not.

I appears that your idea was to add a new Remote Master switch so that you could use it rather than the original Master switch on the SC110 CAN switch box. I have done this several times. This involves using a SPDT switch rather than a common SPST switch. A SPDT switch has three terminals. The center terminal is connected to one of the outer terminals when the switch is UP (we might think of that as ON). The center terminal is connected to the other outer terminal when the switch is DOWN. We might think of that as OFF but it is really ON to another circuit.

These three terminals need to be connected to the proper pins in the often unused brown connector. The pins ae named 12V, E1 and Switch Detect. The 12V pin needs to be connected to one of the outer terminals on the Switch, Switch Detect is connected to the other outer terminal on the Switch. E1 is connected to the center terminal.

It appears from you picture that you have done this. This is somewhat confirmed by the green indication of E1 in your screen shot. To completely confirm that your wiring is correct, flip the new Master OFF. Of course, OFF is really ON to the switch detect wire but we think of it as OFF. The screen indication should go to Black. Wait a bit and flip the new Master back to what we think of as ON. Does the E1 indicator switch to green very quickly? If it doesn't go to Green or there is a delay before it goes Green then there is a wiring problem.

Here's how that works. The switch detect wire is normally at ground but temporarily switches to 12V every 15 seconds or so. During that brief period of time, the system checks all its potential switch locations to determine which ones actually have a switch present. Since the center terminal will be "hot" when the switch is UP or DOWN, the system will then believe a switch is present and likely is going to be used.

It creates a chart of the locations where it found a switch and quickly turns the switch detect line back to ground. The system then starts checking the switch locations but only those where its chart shows there is actually a switch present. This is why incorrect wiring can cause as much as a 15 second delay before the indicator goes from black to green. That is what happens when the switch detect pin is not used or wired incorrectly. Diodes can also be used to fool this scheme.

If your indicator reliably and rather quickly changes colors as you would expect then your wiring is likely correct.

The other part of adding a different Master is to inform the configuration that you wish to use it instead of the original Master. It sounds as if you have done this also.

In other words, it should work but it doesn't. With the old Liquid Product Control Module a real implement switch or a jumper was needed on the Liquid Module itself. I don't believe this is done that way with an L2 as I believe a separate module is used if you desire an implement switch. Most modules need to have High Current Power as well. These are the fairly large red and black wires going to the Module. The High Current Power is necessary to do the "work" portion of turning the valve ON.

I've never seen the error message that you show. The error message seems to say "I know you have the new Master ON but for some reason I'm not going to apply". This may be a new error message that has been added recently in an effort to alert you to other problems.

Maybe this is some type of quirk when trying to use one of the "E" inputs with an L2. Maybe there is some other confusion in the configuration.

Last thought, your last picture seems to indicate that F0 is OFF (old Master) and that E1 is ON (new Master) and all section switches are ON. This would seem correct to me but you are obviously getting the error message and the NH3 valve is not opening. Flipping the old Master ON/OFF should go from black to green as before and shouldn't affect the application status. Try it, I suspect you will still see the error message and the valve will stay shut. If so this tends to reinforce my thinking that something else is not set properly or there is some type of quirk. Maybe no one else has tried using a remote Master with an L2? Also double check that your target rate is not set to zero. That has tripped me up a few times.

When a customer would call and say "I can't get the valves to open on my sprayer or NH3 bar". I would mention these things: 1. Make auto swath Inactive (off), 2) check that the target rate is not zero, 3) check that an implement switch is working properly or jumpered 4) check that the module is getting High Current Power. You need to use a meter to be certain. Put red probe on on red wire and black probe on black wire. Meter should show +12V. Usually one of these was the culprit.

I suspect when you fnd the problem it will be fairly obvious then. BTDT. Good Luck.

Edited by tedbear 1/10/2026 09:13
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