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East of Broken Bow | Simplest explanation:
A 10" blade has the teeth 5" from the axle.
An 8" blade has the teeth 4" from the axle.
The simple math tells me that the 8" blade will have 20% more torque or 20% more 'pull' on the teeth in the wood, but the teeth will be moving at a slower speed.
The teeth will be moving slower, so feed rate may have to be reduced a little, but the benefit SHOULD be 20% less load on the motor, provided you adjust feed rate to best match how the blade cuts. Don't worry about the teeth clearing the chips due to the slower tooth speed. The smaller blade (assuming it is made for the same RPMs) will be designed to optimize that.
One last thing I might add is to experiment with different blades. I have cut 2" oak out of an old barn, and it actually cut easier with a standard kerf 'framing' blade, than it did with a thin kerf blade. The thin kerf blade would drag as I cut, the standard kerf seemed to have more 'set' to the teeth, and would not drag, so it actually pulled easier.
That said, if I were you, I'd be awfully tempted to use 7-1/4" blades if you can. They will pull even easier, and they are so cheap anymore you can justify swapping them out at the first sign of getting dull and IMO the sharpness of the blade is probably more important than anything else when cutting oak. An easy way to see if the blade kerf is too thin would be if the sides of the blade are getting 'polished' as you cut. Ideally, the only thing that should be touching the wood would be the teeth themselves. If the sides of the blade shows signs of rubbing on the wood, try a blade with more 'set', which is often a framing blade, they are designed to make fast cuts without binding at the expense af a cut edge that isn't as smooth, but I think you said that the dege doesn't have to be perfect. | |
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