Faunsdale, AL | 730diesel - 12/3/2025 05:57
Convert the whole works to group 31s with 3/8 studs. Problem solved.
This is the way to go if you can fit the group 31 size batteries in the space. Buy a crimp tool and cut the old corroded/damaged lead clamps off the cables and crimp on new eyelet terminals. You can buy the tool, terminals and some heat shrink tube cheaper than a new battery cable. The main thing is to get rid of the old style clamps and posts.
This also simplifies connecting multiple batteries. There’s no special cables to make or buy. All of them have ring terminals on the end and are joined on a battery terminal stud. I am not a fan of welding cable just because I don’t think the jacket is as tough as the stuff used on factory battery cables, but if you want to put it in plastic loom or think it’s good enough, use it. Making the cables with ring terminals is so much simpler than buying special solder or swage-on terminals for the lead post type batteries. I usually just cut the old lead terminals off and use the factory cables as much as possible.
And I use antiseize, any type, aluminum, nickel or copper on the stud connections. If not, I put them on clean and apply any type grease or oil afterward to seal it. Usually use grease where they’re not readily accessible when checking oil and apply oil where they are. When checking the oil in a vehicle, I touch the end of the dipstick to one of the battery connections each time I pull the stick out. That drop of oil is plenty to maintain the protective layer over the connection.
Edited by ccjersey 12/3/2025 07:53
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Never-seize on battery posts ??????
