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| If the clutch cable and its ball sockets are all fine and adjusted correctly, allowing the spool to be fully stroked out, the next step will be to replace that small 90 degree JIC elbow in that area with a "tee" fitting and connect a pressure gauge to see what pressure is being applied when the clutch pedal is clear down to the floor. The steel line must still be connected. You're just making a way to check pressure including the brake piston itself. Pressure should be 195-205 psi. If the brake pressure isn't in this range AND the spool is 100% fully stroked out, next verify the main line pressure on the top of the clutch valve. If it isn't 195-205, the brake psi cannot be right. So, that would need to be corrected first. Engine speed above 1200 RPM for these psi checks. Proper brake pressure and no/weak trans brake then could mean warped main clutch discs OR the brake disc itself is worn out, which is kind of NOT common. Like I've never seen one worn out. Warped clutch discs can overcome the trans brake when the oil is cold and maybe works much better when oil is at working temp. Starting the tractor with the 5-speed in a gear already and then shift out of park would help the trans brake stop rotation. Contrary to what you've being told, the transmission brake can be replaced in chassis, not requiring a split. Once all three hydraulic pumps are removed you can reach up inside and remove the 5 or 6 3/8" bolts and disassemble the brake. All parts can come down thru the access hole you are working up thru. You cannot have forearms of a 300 lb football lineman, but this can be done. I have done one, back in 1976 or 77.
Edited by DrAllis 10/5/2025 07:40
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7060 Alice Chalmers no clutch brake part two
